FreedomGarage

WTB jeep wrangler TJ trailer hitch

Sun, 15 Apr 2012 04:28:32 +0000

My brother in-law is looking for a TJ trailer Hitch. does anyone have one laying around and want's to get ride of or sale?
please let me know

-greg

Gotta Luv UPS

Sat, 24 Mar 2012 17:17:55 +0000

I decided to put a winch on the front of my new Jeep. How could you not do it when prices are so low on a 8500lb unit. I opted for the SuperWinch Gen 2 8500 $299 from Quatratec. Well it arrived along with a mounting plate. I open the box, that wasnt in the best of shape, only to find that UPS had dropped it on the top of the box crushing the solenoid box on the top of the Winch. I made a quick call to Quadratec and they shipped another one out immediately and will have UPS pick up the smashed one. Hopefully this one arrives in better condition than the first !

Craig

2005 Jeep Wrangler

Thu, 08 Mar 2012 19:39:03 +0000

Well now that I am back and ready for some 4 wheelin I needed something to drive.

I just found a 2005 TJ 6 Cyl Auto, its a Florida car and the frame has almost zero rust, its kind of high mileage 120k but for my needs it will be perfect. I will still need a lift and tires but at least I have the vehicle !!

Craig

Exhaust Manifold

Tue, 07 Feb 2012 18:06:55 +0000

Anyone know where I can get a better deal on replacing the exhaust manifold? Im sure this is due to one of my many un-scheduled flights with FTR

I want to get a second opinion on this, it took them 3 visits when I told them from the start there was a leak at the header to find a leak.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

From Dealership:
"HELLO CURTIS

FRONT & REAR EXHUAST W/ GASKET $1260.00 PLUS TAX & DISPOSAL (CROWN)

FACTORY PARTS $1800.00 PLUS TAX & DISPOSAL"
-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Jeep is a 2005 Rubicon, I-6 4.0L no mods (YET)

IAT Relocation

Tue, 23 Aug 2011 19:34:13 +0000

Has any one actually tried this mod?

I'm thinking about moving my intake air temperature sensor to the edge of my airaid tube closer to the filter.

You Jeep guys might like this...

Tue, 19 Jul 2011 17:52:14 +0000

Seems like a neat idea to me.

http://www.autoblog.com/2011/04/07/jeep-wr...ence-truck-kit/

Recharging AC

Wed, 13 Jul 2011 00:19:52 +0000

My ac is no longer blowing cold. I was thinking of buying the DIY kit from the parts store. Are they worth it or should I let a pro handle it? Anyone ever used one?

Line Locks

Thu, 09 Jun 2011 13:40:46 +0000

I am thinking of putting a line lock/roll control in the jeep to eliminate the three footed control. I am also thinking of using it as a parking brake for short duration times. ( wiring it to the key so i wont drain battery)

Pro's Con's?

K5 Lift and axle install

Thu, 02 Jun 2011 17:57:30 +0000

OK, I'm getting tired of the binding old front axle joints, the loose ball joints, and these terrible tires shaking me up and down the highway. It's about time to assemble and install all the parts I've been hoarding and rebuilding over the last year or so.

Anyone interested in helping out with the install some weekend coming up? I'm pretty sure (and I hope I'm not jinxing myself here) that it can be knocked out in a day. And we can turn it into a cookout/hangout too. We can put the new Weber grill to use and the fire pit too.

Are you available sometime in the next upcoming saturdays? If not to help, even just to stand there and point and laugh, throw tools, hide parts, cause mischief, operate the grill, drinking adult beverages, basically anything useful or even useless would be welcomed. Throw out some dates for some upcoming Saturdays and lets get this done so I can get back out and wheel!!!

I know it's last minute but I can be ready as soon as this Saturday the 4th and the 11th looks good too...

Black Tie Jeep

Sat, 07 May 2011 02:42:42 +0000

Ok it time to do some add on to my jeep.

this is one of many planned. my new hood

Also I will be adding Borla Headers, and a 62mm intake and riser. as well as a Electric Fan upgrade.

I've blown up my fair share of motors

Mon, 02 May 2011 00:03:11 +0000

My craftsman oilless compress was sounding funny for a while, but did not give it much thought. Then I turn it on yesterday and started hearing some awful noises. I took the shroud off and this is what I found.

One of the two pistons connecting rod broke and the piston sleeve is damaged. Now those noises I heard make sense.
Just when I started imagining a new Ingersoll Rand I went to sears online and found I could order a new set for only $50.

Toyota upgrades

Sat, 09 Apr 2011 23:10:49 +0000

Since I am finally done insulating my garage, just in time for spring
I can turn my attention to the Toyota. I stripped the interior to prep for Heculiner.

I knew. About a couple of rust holes that where near the rear wheel wells.
The first one turned out a little bigger than I anticipated. Hope the one on the other side is smaller.
I have the patch almost ready to be welded in.

Here's what it looks like from underneath.

Jeep automatic tranny

Fri, 18 Mar 2011 12:20:11 +0000

I have a line on a 1991 YJ with a 5 speed. What is involved with swapping to an auto? Do I need different length drive shafts? can any of the jeep autos be used with a floor shifter? That way I wouldn't have to swap columns.

Battery troubles

Mon, 17 Jan 2011 22:26:31 +0000

when out to start the 4 runner the other day. battery was dead, no big surprise since it's been so cold lately. When I connected the battery charger, the charger said no battery connected. battery was bought new during fall crawl. The winch has been disconnected since fall crawl also. any ideas how to charge the battery?

My Newest project

Thu, 14 Oct 2010 16:23:09 +0000

Well the parts are finally coming together. I have the Genright HyLine fenders hanging in my tent right now with the first coat of paint drying, 35's waiting in the back of the J10, and fresh cutoff wheels and sawsall blades just itching to cut something. I'm hoping to get it finished this weekend so that it will be ready for the next club run.

Well it's time to head back to the tent for some more painting.

Whole bunch of brackets

Not sure it's going to fit

2000 TJ Value

Wed, 13 Oct 2010 14:45:22 +0000

A friend of a friend has a 2000 TJ Sport w/ the 6cylinder and an auto. She took it to a mechanic because she was having some problems. The mechanic, who she said she trusted, said it has a cracked head and the engine was full of sludge.

My friend asked me what I think it is worth the way it is. I have not seen the Jeep, but it has a soft top and new tires and 163K on the engine. I don't know if she overheated it to crack the head or what. I was guessing maybe private party sale she could get $2000 for it. Am I off on that guess? What do you guys think its worth?

KBB for Fair condition is about $4000, so it would be less than that needing a new head/engine. As of now she is looking to sell it as is or try trading it in towards a new car.

Thanks!

Rover head gasket job

Thu, 07 Oct 2010 00:01:46 +0000

Well, i thought i would stop in and say hi, so Hi!

the lastest project: http://picasaweb.google.com/lowrider91/20101002Rover#

I may be able to make the oct, run

I hope everyone is doing well, Jay

Prep for Fall Crawl

Fri, 03 Sep 2010 13:03:46 +0000

I will finish replacing the drivers side axle u-joint tonight.

Then I have to:
Put in the Currie steering
Install rear Lock-rite
Change the oil
Change the plugs
Clean air filter
Change transmission fluid
Adjust e-brake
Grease stuff
Fix OBA manifold bracket
Pack

Should be a busy week, I'm glad Monday is a holiday.

What do you have left to do?

42RLE transmission

Mon, 19 Jul 2010 20:30:03 +0000

and the saga continues.... I should just have my own form.....

For the last couple of weeks I have notice the shift from 1st to 2nd had been a little ruff. but as of last week it has turned into a pause drop of the nose and the a bang into 2nd. From 2 to 3 then to 4 no issue. Back down no issue until yesterday, not it bangs into first or when it drops out of 2nd.

and of course it just can't be that easy. but it only does it when it's cold after i first start the jeep or after it sits for some time. After it's fully warmed up it shifts very smooth.

I'm not sure were I should start on this one. I can trouble shoot it until the cows come home or just buy a use tranny online or from ebay they have them for cheap money.

it's a 42RLE Automatic transmission. Does anyone know if I have to get on out of a jeep wrangler or could any 42RLE work? they come in Jeep Wranglers; liberty's; and Dakota trucks. Some say from 2x4 and some say 4x4 does that matter?

Does anyone know of a good and trust worthy Transmoission Shop.

BTW it's the BOD CURSE!!!

WG trailer plug/loom pin out

Sun, 27 Jun 2010 12:44:10 +0000

in the process of fitting a tow hitch, so far its all gone well but this being the far side of the pond JEEP info is sparce and I dont want to pay stealer prices for the oe loom $180+ and a 7 day wait to get it shipped in from the Father land (Germany) so does anyone know the pin out on the oe trailer loom plug tucked up in the rear quarter panel? so far I've sussed out reverse, the purple wire but the rest of the connections are doing my head in!

new parts for the toyota

Tue, 22 Jun 2010 22:21:49 +0000

Fed Ex came a day early to deliver my new parts. Hopefully I will have them installed by the next run.

Jeep is in the garage

Sat, 05 Jun 2010 01:18:43 +0000

Finally got some stuff done at the house so I had some time to clean out the garage. Got the top off and the jeep in the garage last Saturday.

(Don't mind the toilet in the middle of the garage)

I'm putting the 33's back on, removing shocks to measure for bumpstops. Just want to make sure the new shocks (Bilstien 5100's) don't bottom out when flexing. Also swapping in some JKS adjustable lower rear control arms (now I will have all JKS arms) and Currie Correctlync steering.

Also giving it a good look over and greasing everything. While greasing the balljoints I noticed one of the c-clips on the front axle u-joint was coming off. I have one shaft ground down and full circle c-clips installed, but this was the axle shaft I have not gotten to. Just put that on my to-do list.

New Look for the bronco

Mon, 17 May 2010 14:25:38 +0000

Yo all, hope everyone is doing well

Decided to give the Old Bronco a new look for 2010

Ditched the full hardtop in favor of a half cab top
Cut the rear of the top out
Fabed up a tonneau cover for the rear
Ripped out the old roll bar
Installed a new roll bar(still have to do the front of the cage)

So here are some pics

front view

Crappy pic of the roll bar

Inside view of roll bar

Side view of half cab, and roll bar

Few other pics

Oh and a little under hood upgrade

YJ Floor Panel Replacement

Mon, 10 May 2010 13:48:59 +0000

So, a guy at work picked up a YJ for his kids to drive this summer while they are back from school. No real rust on it anywhere except the drivers floor pan, rotted right through.

Here's what I started with, typical 20 some year old floor rust.

Here it is all cut out and prepped for welding. Notice the body braces prepped as well cuase the floor pan will be plug welded to those too.

Here's the mangled mess that came out after cutting out the rusted area and chiseling off the factory spot welds with an air hammer.

This is the new floor pan sourced from Quadratec for a mere $35. It's an OK piece but very basic as far as fit and finish. You can see where I had to "massage" it into place for proper fit. I also had to flatten out one of their bends and rebend it about 1/2" over. Once I got it fitting properly, I drilled all the holes for plug welding.

Laying in and checking fitment. That's about as good as it's gonna get...

All welded in.

From here it will get primer, paint and seam sealer on both sides and a good coat of undercoating on the bottom.

My Roll Cage

Tue, 30 Mar 2010 01:05:36 +0000

I spent the weekend up in NH at Dollarfab's House of Steel where the master fabricator himself helped me install a roll cage in my LJ. We started with a KOZ pre-bent cage kit and "adjusted" it to fit in my Jeep. The kit was mostly complete but it was missing two brackets and a couple of tubes were a little long but Scott was able to make it work.

Seeing everything that went into making this kit that was pre-fit and tacked together before being cut apart and shipped to me fit into my Jeep made me realize just how in over my head I would have been if I tried to do this by myself.

I still have a couple of things to do before it's 100% but I can't thank Scott enough for all of his help.

Finally out of the garage

Fri, 26 Mar 2010 02:26:37 +0000

I finally got a chance to work on the buggy. I still need to finish quite a few things but I was able to drive it again.

York air compressor

Tue, 09 Mar 2010 00:01:52 +0000

I've been wanting to get some type of on board air system for the toyota for a whille now. I hate mooching air from others. So I picked up a york off of NEOW last week. It didn't have a pulley so I found one on ebay.
Question: Can I press off the large (balance?) wheel off of the pulley and clutch? The pulley weighs in at 12 pounds and I figure lighter is better.

Re-Gearing

Wed, 03 Feb 2010 21:25:36 +0000

Does anybody know how to re-gear axles and want to help me out with my front and rear? I can even pull my axles and remove the shafts so that they can be done on a bench for ease. I would like to do standard 4.88's in my D30 and Yukon Thick Cut 4.88's on my D44 Trac-Loc 3.73 and numerically down carrier. I'm poor so I can't afford to pay to have the work done at a shop but can provide lunch and semi-skilled labor.

ABS light is on

Mon, 30 Nov 2009 23:22:23 +0000

I just changed the upper and lower balljoints in the dodge this past weekend and now the ABS and brake light won't go out. I had to pull the sensors out of the unit bearings in order to get to the joints but I made sure they were clean going back in. The wire is not pinched or kinked. It still runs and brakes fine. I already tried resetting the computer by taking off the ground off of the battery. Any ideas what could it be?
It's a 2004 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4

so what's Bob's old 78 Cherokee been up to?

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 20:14:03 +0000

So as some of you may know, I bought Bob's 78 Cherokee off him and promised I'd do a few little things to it while wheeling it like the dickens...well...here's the latest.

So I tried wheeling up a hill that, at the bottom of it, has a marshy brook running through it...and managed to get it buried almost to the rockers!

As you can see I added a rear window from a fiberglass truck cap that I modified.

This past weekend, I managed to push it to it's limits at MaBell on the first obstacle...affectionately known as JeepEater.

and, being the only one with a winch...I had to finagle a snatch block to a tree to winch myself back up...

So there ya have it...I'm keeping to my promise!!
More pics/video at My brother's photobucket
Video of the trip, by Becky, at Jay's Facebook Page

I think next may be the M715 windshield glass and a roll cage (less the sheet metal from the pillars-up!)

- Erek

HELP!

Thu, 01 Oct 2009 22:41:38 +0000

my 91 jeep cherokee all of a sudden just stalled while i was backing down a hill it cranks and cranks but nothing its getting fuel and spark i just replaced the computer a week ago so im guessing its not that i also replaced the distributor i dont know anymore

Damage report

Mon, 14 Sep 2009 13:39:06 +0000

Just wondering how everybody made out this weekend. It didn't seem like too much carnage, but alot of stuff seems to show up after everything is home and unloaded.

So far I know I need to replace my gas tank, and either I broke another stub shaft or just blew out a hub.

I'm starting to run out of spare parts for this thing. It's time to start saving for some Alloy shafts.

3 days and counting

Tue, 08 Sep 2009 12:36:24 +0000

I love how I always wait to the last second to prepare for a run.

Here is what I started on Monday and hope to finish before Friday
Tranny swap,
Replace fuel line
Rebuild wheel hubs
Reseal all the tire beads with bead sealer
Check fluids in everything

So far I have the new tranny in the buggy but I still need to run the coolant lines and hook up the wires.

Big Thanks to Greg and Cory for coming by to help me out yesterday.

What does everyone else have to finish?

TJ Upgrades

Thu, 03 Sep 2009 02:55:50 +0000

Well, it's that time of year. I seem to do upgrades right before Fall Crawl. Last year it was a 3" lift, SYE and driveshaft. This year I got some new rims and tires as well as a belly-up skidplate.

Stock TJ skid plate

Teraflex BellyUp skid installled

New Tires mounted, 33x12.5x15 Mickey Thompson Baja Claws on 15x8 Cragar Soft 8's. Balanced with AirSoft BB's
Thanks to Greg for the BB's, 8 ounces in each tire and it rides nice (had it up to 70 tonight and it seems just fine). Thanks to Bob at Bay State for mounting the tires for me today.

Couple other shots.

Now just need to adjust the rear brakes, change the rear diff fluid, grease it up, check give it a general check over. Still haven't gotten to finish plumbing/wiring up the OBA (been a year and I haven't finished it.....maybe someday).

Yo Chris got your grill and hood

Sat, 15 Aug 2009 16:11:51 +0000

Hey Chris
I remembered you were looking for a jeep Grill and hood

While looking at some wheels for my bronco I found you a awesome hood and Grill

1960 Willys pickup

Complete with headlights

I knew you wanted something cool
he wanted 100 bucks for the grill and 75 for the hood, but I talked him down to $100 for both

hope you want them
call me 781-983-6677

Have them with me in Buzzards bay

Don

TJ front SB link removal

Tue, 14 Jul 2009 17:16:50 +0000

Can you guys tell me the easiest way you've found to remove the top part of the sway bar links from the sway bar on a TJ. I think the best way I've used is a pickle fork in an air hammer. Is there a better way? Just wondering because my air hammer is not functioning and I'm doing a lift for my brother in law this week.

Help!!!!!

Mon, 13 Jul 2009 11:05:31 +0000

I have a 98 Grand Cherokee 4.0 ran when parked. The battery went dead from sitting. I replaced it, and now she wont start she cranks over but wont fire. No spark. I have done the purple wire short thing for the alarm. replaced the cps and the cks. the voltmeter and gas gauges are not working. I have no voltage going to the coil. all fuses are good.

I am out of ideas anyone got any fresh ones????

What's under me????

Thu, 09 Jul 2009 20:25:32 +0000

So I'm doing prep work on my LockRite install, in my D-35. Have my new (used) Riddler cover all shined up and ready. OK, not really shined up, but it was clean. Unbolting my diff cover and something seems wrong. The bolt pattern seems way different than the D-35 I bought for parts. Hmmmmmm..... Drop the cover and yeah, there's no way the Riddler matches up.

Scrape the rust off one of the tags that I wasn't to careful with when I dropped the cover, and it says something like "USE LIMITED SLIP D.......".... can't make out the rest. Quick Google of 'Dana differential ID' and yeah, the bolt pattern matches up with a D44

So I'm counting my blessings. I DIDN'T take my diff apart and try to install a D35 LockRite. No telling what kind of damage I could have done with a BFH and no clue. AND I'm riding on a 44.

Anyone want to buy some spare D-35 shafts, Riddler cover and a LockRite?

CJ Grille-Grill

Tue, 07 Jul 2009 02:58:29 +0000

Bought a CJ grille a while back, figured it would be a good indoor winter project. Clean it, strip it, paint it, wire up the lights and presto, instant wall hanging! Better than those silly pictures of the kids.....

Was cooking out over the weekend and I thought, why not turn my Weber grill into a...... you ready?.......... a CJ Grille - Grill!

Haven't worked out the details yet, like how to do it. I hate sweating the details..... ........ but with a MIG welder and a tank of propane, come on. What can go wrong?? Figured I can mount the CJ grille onto the back of the Weber, so when I�m grilling, I�m behind the grille. And grill. I'm going to mock it up this weekend. If it works out, I'll do a photo essay of the build!

Cutting off LCA Mounts

Wed, 01 Jul 2009 12:24:54 +0000

Cutting front and rear stock lower control arm mounts off of the frame of your daily driver is a scary thing to do. That is all.

more tube

Sun, 28 Jun 2009 21:44:38 +0000

So first i want to thank john c. for coming over sat to help with this project. He's the man!!

Second i want to thank my wife for telling me i had to do a cage before MOAB!! (no she doesn't have a sister)

Now to start the story, it will be short because i don't type like i talk.

As noted above my wife told me i needed a cage before MOAB, so i started looking around at them. While i was looking Poison Spyder went out, until recently, now under new management. I had decided that the PSC was what i wanted so i was out of luck when i had saved up the cash. So i started looking around again, and i couldn't find much that caught my eye like the PSC one. john pm ed me a cage kit from KOZ Off Road that was on Ebay for like $50 cheaper than the website. http://www.kozoffroad.com/pages_catalog/ro...tjrollcages.htm I thought it was ok / good for the price, but it didn't grab me like others. A to Z Fabrication donated some stuff to the GAJR last year and i checked out there web site and saw this cage http://www.atozfabrication.com/store/home.php?cat=260 ,and thought it was cool, but for the price of both front and rear sections it wasn't that cool. Needless to say i looked around some more, and found nothing in my price rage that grabbed me like the A to Z one.

I ended up buying the KOZ cage kit with the A to Z overhead hoop, and used the stock front spreaders in the rear to get some protection that way. John who works in a wood shop had some old pipe clamps that had bent so they where no good, so he bent me up a couple pieces for grab handles. Here are some pics from the last 2 days.

john notching some tube

booger weld

they got better as the day went

Over all i'm happy with things, i still have some more welding to do and some clean up too. Then paint and stuff. I'm planning on finishing it up over the long weekend.

Free stuff

Fri, 08 May 2009 18:02:30 +0000

Yota 22r distributor
Yota 4 spd manual trans from 2wd truck, mid 80's
Bare 5.0 ford block, crank and rods in dire need of machine shop work
WJ grand Cherokee drivers seat, grey in color,the frame is not so good but all the elctrics work fine.

EVERYTHING IS FREE FREE FREE!

Melted Carnage

Sun, 26 Apr 2009 22:36:55 +0000

I bought Dom's old Full Traction 6" LA lift kit a couple of months ago and am getting ready to install it. Because of the triangulated upper control arm set up you need to get rid of the rear track bar and install their exhaust set up to clear everything.

So, in preparation for the lift install I had a local mechanic install the exhaust but he couldn't put the tail pipe on because I still have the track bar in place. I figure it's no problem since it's only going to be a couple of weeks until I get the kit installed. I couldn't have been more wrong.

Yesterday afternoon I was heading to Vermont to visit some friends and was on Rt 2 near Ayer cruising with the top down and the radio on when I heard a loud rattling coming my rear suspension during a break in the music. I stopped at the next exit to take a look at what was going on. That's when I found out that my exhaust was pointed right at the passenger's corner of my fuel tank which was only about 10-12" away.

It melted the passenger rear top shock bushing, a little bit of the body mount, slightly deformed my tank, and completely melted the hoses from the roll over valve and vapor canister.

I was able to get it home but I need to drop the tank to further assess the situation and stop at the dealer to see what those hoses will cost. I have a spare shock bushing but if anyone in the North Shore area has a spare body mount, I could probably use one.

D35 sprung a leak

Sun, 26 Apr 2009 22:26:38 +0000

Took a look under my TJ after the GG cut today and saw my D35 is leaking

Here's some pics I just took. Any ideas on what it is? How much time, pain or $$$ to make it go away?

EDIT - did some Googling, and I'm thinking pinion seal. Agree? Disagree? This really bites.... just finished installing a Lock Right in my front diff yesterday, really not looking forward to tearing apart the D35...

Vibration AKA �Zombie Dance�

Sun, 26 Apr 2009 01:29:23 +0000

Ok, as some you already know I have been fighting a fierce vibration, with in the drive line. And now I�m lost:
History:

4 months ago I notice a vibration in the jeep whenever I was on the highway at speeds anything over 55mhp. At that time I attributed it to bad or out of balanced wheels. I then change to my other set of wheels and tires and the vibration was still there and getting worse. When I got my new tires the vibration get much worse. I added 8.5 oz of air soft BB�s to combat balance issue. I then did a SYE. But I did not have the right type of drive shaft so I used one that Cory had on his old setup. Now the vibration has changed, it now only happens when I�m on the gas and not when I at a cost. Cory and I are unsure of what condition the old driveshaft is. Someone had told him that the pin that the ball rest on in the double cardan is bent. So I a new Tom Woods driveshaft being delivered.

I have checked all of the front components, tie rods, ball joints, and steering linkage. They are all tight and passed inspection. I do need a front end alignment but this should not cause this type of vibrations.

My question is this. If the new driveshaft does not fix the vibration what should I look at next?

Upgrades......

Sat, 11 Apr 2009 20:21:34 +0000

Well, The season is upon us..(at least for us "fair weather" wheelers.) This winter i have done a few upgrades to the Jeep.
She has a new set of Alloy axles up front from Mitchell Drivetrain. The OBA setup is finally complete. I just finished the headlight upgrade. I put a Hella H-4 conversion in it and did the relay conversion. All i can say is I am now the guy I hate to come across at night......damn bright headlights.

I must say that the relay conversion worked better than i had hoped. I left one headlight on the switch and one on the relay...Very noticeable difference. The one on the switch looked very dim in comparison. I have pulled the dizzy a half dozen times since its last episode going to gutter and all looks good it seems that the destruction of cam gears is over.

I am hoping to finish up a few more things but plan on being at the May run!!

What have you done if anything??

tires

Sat, 11 Apr 2009 18:25:26 +0000

i know i can ask 100 people and get a different answer from most, but i'm in the market for tires again. i started with bfg mud terrains, loved them for the most part. then went to the pro comp x terrains i have now, great off road ok on. both lasted similar mileage 30,000+ but my jeep has recently become a wheeler only, not my daily driver any more ;D . so with the exception of the drive to moab in the fall my jeep won't see to much street driving except to and from the trails the next few years. so i'm looking at my options i'm leaning toward bfg km2's (35x12.5x15)or pit bull mad dog's (35x14.5x15).

bfg's are rated a 1/2 star better on the street but the pit bull's are rated 1 star better on the rocks but mud, sand, snow and trails they are rated the same. the wider tire will give me a wider foot print + lower c.o.g. but they will also be harder to turn.

Misc stuff cheap or free

Thu, 09 Apr 2009 15:13:22 +0000

Stock steel Jeep wheels with tires $60
Mirror mover brackets 97-02 TJ Free
Aftermarket passenger side TJ mirror, free
Stock TJ "sport" steps free
Black passenger side inside door panel $5
Spare tire extender and 3rd brakelight riser for TJ $15
Stock spare tire holder- free
Tailgate bar for soft top $15

Rusty Floor Replacement

Sun, 05 Apr 2009 03:13:40 +0000

A couple years ago when I was building the S-Blazer I repaired the left front body mount. At the time I knew it would eventually need a new floor pan but didn't think it would be this soon. As it sits now I effortlessly stuck a prybar through the floor just for show.

I sourced the new floorpan from RC Truck on the junkyard strip in Brockton, it was only $50 and they had it in stock. It appears to be a quality piece and complete with more area than I need.

After placing it over the rusty floor I could roughly figure out where to cut off the excess panel.

Laying it in the floor again I could then trace it's shape with a sharpie. This will give me a line to cut out the offending rust.

I will update this as this project progresses...

It's finally out of the garage

Sat, 28 Mar 2009 14:17:02 +0000

I finally gave up on the sheetmetal and have started turning the Bronco into a trail buggy. I have the basic tubes on and now have to start with the triangulation.

I definitely need to do something about that lack of rear flex. I'll probably add an anti-wrap bar and take out a leaf.

axel shops

Mon, 23 Mar 2009 23:46:32 +0000

does anybody know any good place to go in the springfield, ma area to put in new axel gears in my jeep.

Dealing with frame rust?

Mon, 09 Mar 2009 12:54:57 +0000

I went and looked at a few TJ's over the weekend. Found a couple of prospects. But since they are about 10-11 years old there's some fair amount of frame rust. Everything looked solid and no rot, but I'd like to treat the frame and axles.

What's the best way to go about this? Naval Jelley? POR15? Wire wheel and rustoleum? It would probably be the first project I get too after a thorough cleaning.

How do you know?

Wed, 18 Feb 2009 02:15:52 +0000

How do you know if your t-case is due for a rebuild or replacement chain? With the shifter in 4hi the front output yoke has about 1/4 turn of play. That, to me, says the chain may be worn out? or is that amount about normal?

good Alignment shop?

Fri, 06 Feb 2009 01:50:07 +0000

I am looking for a good shop that can do an alignment on a lifted WJ. The last one I went to aligned it to stock specs, and the toe in is too great. I am in Weymouth, but will drive where I need to.

slotted/drilled rotors?

Thu, 04 Dec 2008 20:16:15 +0000

any pros or cons to using either one over a solid on a vehicle that sees dirt and mud? my brakes are getting close and am wondering what to do.

J

Throttle Body Spacer

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 05:52:39 +0000

Has anyone used a throttle body spacer? I've done quite a bit of research, but I've never actually known anyone who has used one. Does it really do the things it says it does, more torque, more midrange power, better fuel efficiency?

S-10 Half Doors

Mon, 17 Nov 2008 01:35:21 +0000

I brought home a parts donor which netted me a few odds and ends mainly a center console that's all in one piece including a working arm rest lid and has a cupholder. But even more thrilled to get 2 doors that I can make half doors out of. My original thought was to make a v cut with the flat along the bottom. That didn't seem to leave much more open space than the door left untouched. So I took the front edge and went straight down with the line of the window. This seems to open things up alot more visually. I left the rear edge angled up because I want to keep the exterior handle and I think it'll give a bit more of a secure feeling while sitting in the seat. Plus it kinda flows visually, I think I'll try to match the angle of the A pillar. Not sure yet if I'm gonna cut off the top of the door yet (upper window surround).

I would like anyones advice, opinion, or whatever before I go cutting this thing and it's too late...

Attached thumbnail(s)

question on fixing stripped battery connector

Tue, 11 Nov 2008 17:23:57 +0000

I think that the last time I had the truck in the shop the mechanic stripped the side battery connector threads - I noticed this when I replaced the glow plug controller and went to put the terminal back in.

So I'm trying to figure out what I can do to address this short of replacing the not quite a year old and in otherwise perfect condition battery.

Help?

Knuckle swap (D30) write up?

Wed, 22 Oct 2008 12:14:48 +0000

Anyone know if there is a good write up on swapping out the knuckles on a Dana 30 (CJ-era)? I'm going to be jumping on doing this soon and would love to check out an overview with any tricks that aren't covered by the FSM.

Before anyone points it out, I DO have the FSM...but I need something to read at work.

Thanks all,
Sean

What engine is this?

Tue, 23 Sep 2008 01:40:05 +0000

Ok, this is the engine that I found when I picked up this jeep. Any idea what this came from? Is it a reman? It isn't anything that I recognize from a CJ, so i figured it might be a YJ or XJ...

Looks like LOTS of emissions stuff has been snipped off. It came a with the Carter BBD originally...

Thanks,
Sean

Got some new meats

Tue, 09 Sep 2008 23:52:29 +0000

Been waiting forever for BFG to come out with the Mud Terrain KM2's in 35x12.50x15
Well they are now out, and I got them mounted up.

So far I have only driven home, with a short detour to a little trail I know. Well not much of a trail, didn't even lock the front hubs. Though being real wet was a good little test to see how they grip, The All Terrains would have spun a little, with these no spinning at all.

So first impressions are great, we will see how I like them once they are broken in a little more

Wide track install on Narrow track CJ

Thu, 28 Aug 2008 12:11:58 +0000

Carry-over from my other topic, but I am looking at the option of installing a set of WT axles into a NT CJ.

History:
I have been pricing the option on staying Narrow track. I found a couple of D44 from CJ5s, DJs (perch change) and also found a drop-in Commando Dana 44 in NH. I started looking for a NT front with the same ratio, when someone on NEOW asked if I wanted to get a narrowed Dana 44 built to drop right in. The initial price tag of $575 got me interested, but the total (all parts required) is closing in a $1k. So I have been pondering...and Dupont "advised me" on going W-i-d-e.

I did a little asking, and a little research and re-learned that the spring perches on the WT CJ axles are the same as the NT. I remember that the WT shock towers in the front are much taller than the NT, but I do not seem to find anything else that is different.

So the Question:
What needs to be swapped/modified to fit and use the WT axles in a NT CJ?

Thanks,
Sean

U-Joint

Wed, 06 Aug 2008 20:14:10 +0000

I was talking with a buddy of mine the other day. He works on european sports cars like porsche and not Jeeps. I told him about the common U-joint issue with high angle driveshaft's. He had a different theory on this issue. He mentioned that a greaseable U-joint might not be the way to go for a reason. His thinking - - - The greaseable joint would heat up and hurl grease right out of the joint onto the road or other parts of the undercarriage. After a short time you wouldn't have any grease at all. The non greaseable u-joint is "sealed" and won't fling grease but rather dry up and eventually need to be re-packed with grease. I imagine this has been discussed before. Now I'm in the position, New non greaseable joint like Brut Force from neapco or greasable from spicer and grease them at every oil change. Thoughts???

Steering shaft removal

Fri, 25 Jul 2008 12:04:05 +0000

Ok, I got the steering column out. but now the shaft that connects the column and the steering box does not want to separate. Is there any "trick" to getting this out?

I have used the "light" BFH technique, but I am worried about f-ing up the steering box (AGR)...

I am working on it today....

thanks,
Sean

Rear End options

Mon, 21 Jul 2008 17:34:31 +0000

Ok, one of the most overtalked discussion points on all boards, but I AM looking for input...with some specific limitations. Like the fact that I am a cheap bastard...

Currently a 1980 CJ7, 4.2 I6, T176, D300, D30 front, AMC 20 rear (narrow-track) ...standard stuff. 3" body lift (going down to 2"), spring lift (planned 2 1/2"), narrow 33" Interco.

Intended usage: 75-90% pavement driving, light off-roading on beach sand and light trails to get to hiking/biking/paddling areas with kids. Light pedal driving No towing, pulling Hummers out of the muck, or driving up waterfalls...but still want it to be capable if the "need" arises.

Planned changes: Non-tweaked Cummins 4BT with a 5 speed (ZF 5 is favorite right now), retain the D300. Try to keep it as ~light~ as possible...and as stock as possible for turning, geometry, etc.

-----

OK...that is the background. I'd love to keep the D30...and I think that will not be an issue with the light-ish use that it should get. I don't really want to go through the hassle of fabbing up a whole front end...

So the back end is the one that get's the daily grind - I see the options as such:

1) Keep AMC 20, add one piece shafts. (Keep 50.5" rear)

2) Get Commando or CJ5 D44 (50.5" rear)

3) Get CJ7 D44 (54.5" rear)

4) Get Scout D44 rear (56" rear IIRC)

- Is that it? Am I missing anything?

- Pros/cons

- Anyone got something they want to get rid of? ;)

Thanks,
S

wj brush guard

Tue, 15 Jul 2008 03:11:56 +0000

does anyone have a wj with a brush guard. i just bought a used one and have no instructions for mounting it. anyone haveany ideas

3" Lift Questions

Tue, 15 Jul 2008 01:49:21 +0000

Ok, so I have a 2" Pro-Comp lift on my TJ right now (been at that height for over 2 yrs). I picked up a set of 33" Trxus MT's and I've been on the lookout for a 3" lift to move up. I picked up a used 3" BDS lift missing the bump stop extensions, rear track bar relocation bracket, rear swaybar links and front discos.

So anyways, I will be picking up adjustable JKS front track bar soon, should I just get a rear track bar relocation bracket to reuse my stock or pony up the money for an adjustable one? I will get some new front discos too. I currently have the JKS ones for 0-2" lift. Longer swaybar links for the rear seem pretty inexpensive.

Next question is the SYE and drive shaft, any recommendations on brands of SYE and drive shaft? I've seen the packages online with a SYE and drive shaft for a 3" lift should I do that, or get the separate parts? I could just throw in the t-case drop but I would rather not do that. This is the most concerning part to me because when I do it I want to do it right and hopefully not have vibrations. Also will I need any adjustable control arms? I am currently running stock.

Anything else I am missing?

Goal is to have this together for Fall Crawl.

Thanks

TJ radio issues

Sun, 06 Jul 2008 20:56:48 +0000

...

AX5 Trans fluid question

Tue, 24 Jun 2008 13:29:58 +0000

I did some quick research on various threads about trans fluid. It notes not to use the dealer recommended fluid which is a GL-5, it does however say to use a GL-3 (which doesn't eat brass parts) or a GL-4.
Redline MT90 is preferred but I can't locate any local with the speed shops around here.

I have Royal Purple Max Gear 75w80 which was noted as a usable fluid (GL-4). Also Royal Purple Synchromax is available.

Any thoughts or suggestions out there? My synchronizer's are giving me a little lip lately.

Thanx

Throttle arm/linkage/rod/connector thingy?

Thu, 19 Jun 2008 16:26:10 +0000

OK, I need some help on sourcing this stupid little rod to connect up my gas pedal to my new(-ish) Weber carb.

My other post in Marketplace gives pictures and such:

http://www.freedomtrailriders.org/forums/i...?showtopic=5695

hopefully tells the story, but here is the skinny - I have the old "rod" that attaches to the accelerator cable bracket and connects to the carb's accelerator. The problem is that the connecting "holes" are at about a 45* angle, and I need to have 1 side adjustable so that I can get it to something like a 90* angle

I've been to a couple of auto stores and speed shops and the only thing they seem to be able to offer is a $90 rod from an offenhouser (sp) dual carb setup.

Q:
So the question is where can I get something like this
- does anyone have a spare lying around?
- Is there a car/truck that I should look for that came with something like this?
- Do I need to get someone to make one?
- other options?

Thanks,
Sean

Recommendation for a shop that can weld a muffler

Wed, 18 Jun 2008 14:37:46 +0000

I've got a friend who bought a fancy aftermarket muffler for his hummer 2 years ago.

The first installation was a mess, and he had to have it welded a year ago.

Well, they didn't do a good job either.

Can anyone recommend a good welding shop that can weld a muffler (it's cracked - it doesn't need to be pretty at all) and has the time to do this?

I mean, it can take, what - an hour max to do?

Thanks!

Drain plug for differential

Tue, 17 Jun 2008 16:12:28 +0000

what is the best way to take that drain plug off for adding gear oil, do i need a special wrench or just a really big square drive socket?

Also i wanted to confirm that i need 2qts front and 2 qts rear for the D44s on my rubicon. I picked up 75X-140 synthetic mobil 1. I have 4 qts. but before i do this i just want to double check these things.

TJ Rotors Front and Rear

Sun, 15 Jun 2008 03:27:14 +0000

So I am getting ready to order the new rotors for my 2005 Jeep Rubicon. From what I can tell all 4 rotors look the same, but with my luck there is a slight difference that I am not noticing between the two. Can anyone confirm or dispute that they are all the same? thanks!

Leaking NP 231 Question

Thu, 12 Jun 2008 19:48:58 +0000

I hope this picture shows up. I recently had my rear driveshaft lenghtened 1 1/2 inches. (1990 yj lifted). The transfer case rear seal started leaking. I think the shaft of the slip yoke that was rusty chewed up the seal. I cleaned the shaft and replaced the seal. Now I have oil leaking by the splines and coming out the yoke. Someone on Quadratec put this picture in their reply. I do not have a grease fitting as shown. And, is that a seal at the insert end? Should I have one? I don't. Will loading up the slip with greas hold back the fluid? Would Never Seize work better? The fluid is leaking pretty bad. Any other thoughts?

Thanks
Frank

Jeep Issues with HEI conversion

Wed, 04 Jun 2008 12:20:48 +0000

Well, Thanks to Brenda and Meg, some if not most of you know that i ALMOST made it wheeling last month. In fact i was about 15 minutes away from the beatings when my Jeep got scared and decided it wasn't going. I got a chance to rip her apart on Monday and found that she has chewed thru yet another dizzy drive gear ( the one on the cam). I have researched this to try to figure out why it is happening and this is what i have discovered. Some of it may be common sense ( which is not so common to me)

IF you do the HEI conversion use the old Dizzy drive gear on the Distributor NOT the new one supplied. IT WILL NOT mesh up right. also the replacements i used were original MOPAR parts. (DO NOT USE THESE) they are very very soft and do not mesh correctly. I got this info from the vendor after they sold them to me and also from other boards. I have purchased a set of allegedly matched gears that the vendor has told me will be the last set i will buy. ( lets see if they are right) The guy on the phone told me my problem right down to the brand of HEI i am using before i told him what i was using, so i hope he was right. Tearing down the front of the Jeep is a Royal PITA and i don't want to have to do it again. I think i willl rebuild the oil pump too just to be on the safe side.

I will keep ya posted as to if this works or not.

Hope to see ya on the trails !!!!!

Where to get a Spindle Nut Socket, and Dana 44 parts locally

Tue, 03 Jun 2008 03:29:51 +0000

Yo all

I found one of front wheel bearings feels like it is sticking a litttle.

I jacked up the front end today, to check something out. When I spin the passenger side wheel. it spins smooth most of the way around, but in one spot I can feel a little resistance. So it looks like it is time to take that hub apart, and see whats going on.

So where do I get one of those Spindle Nut Sockets, and do you have a part number for it. Also who or where is the best place to get things like wheel bearings, spindles, and any other misc parts I might need for a dana 44

I know it has a 5 hole spindle, I don't know if it is unique to the ford dana 44??

Also take a looky at this picture, there is a little dust seal or whatever you call it. In this picture it is just to the left of the inner U joint. Anyone know where to get these, and any part number.

Power Steering Box Question

Tue, 27 May 2008 14:54:40 +0000

A little help... My power steering box seems to have a little spot in it were it seems to wiggle. I get a little bump feeling when turning left or right and when returning to center, also when turning the wheel from left to right I can see the pitman arm give a little wiggle or more like a drop down (about 1/16"). I am guessing the worm gear has a worn tooth issue? All the other components seem fine, tie rods, ball joints etc...

New custom Auto transmission oil pan skid plate

Thu, 22 May 2008 13:49:00 +0000

fianlly got around to building it. With the help of a frends machine shop.

Now my front drive shaft will be free!!! from restriction.

http://picasaweb.google.com/lowrider91/200...194980268816690

will pull it and paint it this weekend.

Nth Degree oil pan skid can be seen,, and is the attaching point for the tranny oil pan skid.

D30 carrier removal

Sun, 11 May 2008 19:22:33 +0000

I am trying to remove the diff carrier in my D30 so I can install the Aussie Locker. The thing won't budge. I am using a pry bar and a 3lb hammer to try to pop it out and nothing. Similar to this

Yes, I removed the axle shafts, haha. I am following the writeup 4x4xplor aussie install

I also read on NEOW about using a wrench wedged up at the top of the housing and then the pry bar on the bottom, like this

and still nothing. I also tried using 2 pry bars at the bottom.

I just tried putting a ratcheting tie down around the carrier and hooking the other end up to my sisters XJ and hoping that tension and a straight pull would pop it loose, but again nothing. I read of some crazy stuff like hooking it up to a winch or another rig and giving it a pull but I think I want to avoid those if possible.

Does anyone have any other ideas or tricks to get it out? This is my first time pulling a carrier and I don't wanna screw anything up.

Thanks!

Ive got tire problems, any input?

Sat, 26 Apr 2008 23:14:50 +0000

I get to test drive for 30 days a set of toyo MTs 35s. load 127 speed rating Q E rating on the sidewalls. 76 pounds each. by the way i got an unbelievable price on them $200.00/each

http://marktg.toyotires.com/file/18136.pdf

My jeep 4500 pounds.

my Problem: Trying to figure out what tire pressure to run?

What i have done: Aired up to PSI, Ran some chalk across the tread pattern (all four tires) and drove in a straight line to determine if the tires was running flat.

Anything over 20PSI was definately too much pressure, only the middle section had contact with the road, none of the edges, id say 2" from the edges.

At 20 psi, I'm still not getting it to run flat, even then after the tires warm up the pressure increases to 23-26 so far but have not got them really hot yet.

SO, are these tires just plain too stiff for my appication? they do not make a D rated Toyo at 35" i dont think they make them at all in the MT. I think my jeep is just to light for them.

Any thoughts on the BF goodrich KM2

http://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/specs/mud-t...a-km2/3930.html

Electrical upgrades

Tue, 15 Apr 2008 10:51:38 +0000

I am upgrading the electrical system in the Jeep. I think i may have an issue or two with the stock set-up and want to run a few things by all of ya.
The stock alternator is a 63 amp delco unit. From what i can google it is a 10si with a clock position of 3. I am going to put in a Delco unit 12si with the same clock position. the new one is 105 amps.

I have added a few extra electrical things that make me think i need more power. IE: Fuel injection, HEI distributor, OBA and Winch. I have noticed on full pulls with the winch i can drag the voltage so low the Fuel injection will stop working and stall the Jeep.

Here is the question for the electrical and wiring guru's out there. What is the minimum gauge wire i should use on the Battery post of the new Alt? would the stock wiring be sufficient? The Batt. post on the new alt is the same as the old one.

Also does anyone have a junk Delco alternator laying around that i can have for the core charge?

Thanks Ryan

Crown Automotive Canton, MA

Mon, 14 Apr 2008 12:57:52 +0000

Last week I saw a Craigslist post and also saw a post on NEOW about a new Crown Automotive store in Canton, MA. I swung up there on Saturday and picked up a new Tuffy center console for a good price (they have several models and colors left).

They just opened up in December are expanding their inventory, but they do have a bunch of aftermarket and replacement goodies. They are now a Superwinch dealer.

They are looking to have an open house with a BBQ in the upcoming months. I talked to Jeff for a little while, he is a manager there, his Dad is the VP. I mentioned our club and forum.

The address is 230 Turnpike st (rt138) Canton, MA
www.crownautomotive.net
(781) 821-2276‎

Soft Top Repair

Wed, 26 Mar 2008 01:30:52 +0000

so it is getting warmer and I now need to think abou putting the soft top on. My problem is that the back "window" has a very worn zipper to the point where I cannot zip it in securly.

Does anyone have suggestions where or what type of place can make repairs?

btw I am located in RI.

Thanks in advance!!

building steel front bumper

Thu, 20 Mar 2008 22:43:11 +0000

hi guys, im looking to start building a steel front bumper for my wj. i was wondering what thickness steel i should use. im planning on eventually putting a winch on it. so i also need measurements of a winch. any ideas would be great. thanks

Tire replacement debate

Tue, 18 Mar 2008 17:22:43 +0000

ok i have one tire that has 1/4 tread left the others have 3/4. no the hard part. replace the one warn, or replace 2 to match. fear would be that the 4x4 would get messed up. or do i replace all 4 and make sure to rotate them. i have Yoko Geolander AT+II's, 31's. I am having a hard time finding them as the seem to be discontiued from my search around the net. Any ideas?

Good Year Tires VS. TrXus

Mon, 17 Mar 2008 23:07:54 +0000

Goto this site:

http://www.goodyeartires.com/goodyeartires...&image.y=11

Pricing out between the goodyear MTR and the Silent Armor, MTRs have all around lower ratings but a higher price tage, anyone here know why? At this point im looking at the silent armor series. Im also looking at some trxus tires but im a goodyear guy. Any opinions or advice in general would be greatly appriciated. Some other things to keep in mind that I dont know if it makes a difference but its will soon be time to replace the rotors and brakes soon as well and this rig is a daily driver.

A quote from SEARS for the Silent Armor is $867 for 4 tires with an alignment at $170 a tire, installed and balanced or $976 for the MTRs for alignment, installed and balanced at $196 a tire. I dont understand the $100 + difference if the Silent Armor Series is an all around better tire.

With the Interco TrXus tires found here:

http://www.intercotire.com/site35.php

I am looking at the MTs. Still trying to learn more as im posting this im reading back and forth between the two websites.

If anyone out there does tires for a living can you get me a better deal? Im all for supporting other FTR members with business if I can.

Fiberglass tub install

Sat, 15 Mar 2008 21:18:58 +0000

Well I broke down and bought a fiberglass tub. Right price at the right time i guess. Paid 700.00 (Plus food and fuel) for a new never installed tub, and Tom and I picked it up in Webster. Now i have a lot of work ahead of me, the tub looks like an older style (or maybe just a cheaper style) with no holes predrilled and no template or re-inforcement. Has anyone done a swap like this and if so any words of advice? What would you recommend about re-inforceing things. Also does anyone have or know of a paper template product to lay on the tub to aid in cutting the numerous holes in it. Any advice or tips would be appreciated.

New rear Springs

Thu, 13 Mar 2008 21:03:21 +0000

I'm getting ready to install the new Superlift 6" springs in my Suburban. Presently it uses blocks back there but I have new 6" springs I need to install. Will need to uses any types of blocks to keep the right rear lift? They are Superlift 6" lift springs so I think not. The old ones are sagging and I also hate blocks and avoid whenever I can. I do have the spring shims that came with the springs and new U bolts hopefully I will be good to go with that!

Thanks,
Mike!

Full width YJ Build

Thu, 13 Mar 2008 16:56:51 +0000

Project Vehicle: 95 YJ 5 spd 4.0 HO

Old Build:

35" mtr's
Dana 30 with 297 shafts open 4.56 gears
Dana 44 rear with OX locker 4.56 gears
JB Conversions 231 SYE
MORE Cross Over steering
OME Shocks
MORE 1" body and motor mount lift
SOA on CJ rear springs anti wrap bar
OBA York comp.
Hurst shifter

New Build:

79 Ford F250 HP Dana 44 front and Dana 60 rear

Dana 44 Front:

Yukon shafts & CTM's
OX Locker
Sky Mfg. Tall Arms
Inverted T Chevy 1 ton TRE's
5.13 Gears

Dana 60 Rear:

Stock 30 spline shafts for now
Richmond Gear No-Slip Locker
Barnes Off Road 3/8 plate Diff cover
Disk brake conversion
5.13 Gears

Tires:

37 X 12.5 X 16.5 Irok Radials on H1 Wheels

T-Case:
Flipped Dana 300

I'm hoping to get the axles and tires mocked up under the jeep this month

Web Shots link: http://community.webshots.com/album/561225840FSZGOs?start=0

In search of waggy springs

Thu, 13 Mar 2008 02:35:58 +0000

Hey Dudes,

I have been thinking about playing around with waggy springs on my YJ and I'm wondering if anyone has some I can test fit during my axle build project. I'm currently building a FW 44 and 60 for my YJ and want to see what spring combinations are best for my application. Current Setup: JCW CJ rear springs 5 leaf in front and 7 leaf in the rear SOA. These springs offer 1" of lift over stock YJ springs. Tires: 37 Iroks on hummer 1 wheels.

Thanks
Nate

Wrangler Toe Setting?

Tue, 04 Mar 2008 16:06:54 +0000

Have some confusion (still). What is the toe supposed to be set at for my 97 Wrangler? 4" Lift w/33's. I am getting several different answers, all from 0 to 15�.... I thought it was zero, which mine is not (I will check specs tonight off the alignment paperwork to see actual #), bottom line is I am trying to chase out as much wander as I can from the vehicle.

Axle replacement

Sun, 02 Mar 2008 14:01:27 +0000

For anyone out there that has done it before or has knowledge about it me son blew out his rear
axle shaft on his 83 GMC yesterday. That's what you get running 38's on 1/2 ton axles. But we do have a donor truck a 81 1 ton 4x4 that he plans to swap both axles out from it. The question is his 83 is
a shortbed and the 1 ton a long bed can he use his present rear drive shaft when doing the swap or have the 1 ton shaft shortened. I know the 1 ton shaft is much stronger and suggested he retain that one. Also anyone know a good place to have it done. The front is not a problem. He was planning on doing this anyways to beef up the rig. Lucky for him it happened while wheeling behind his buddies house not out in the boonies somewhere!! Mike seemed to think it is an easy swap but I wasn't sure!
Once this is done I'll feel better this year out on the trails that he is not going to break it at least that part!! Me I only run 35's on my rig learning from past experience!!

Thanks Folks!!
Mike

Adco Anti Sway Bars

Fri, 29 Feb 2008 20:48:23 +0000

Although I'm impressed with the WJ as a vehicle the handling is a little toooooo soft for my likeing and even the wife has commented on it'sinability to hold a line though a set of bends! we have bendy roads here in the UK with corners! and after years of running cars with uprated and slammed suspension systems that rattle your filling out but get you round corners on the line you choose! I've been looking at what can be done to help the WJ gain some poise in the bends
so my search has thrown up a set of used and unwanted imported Adco Anti Sway Bars at a good price so far �75 - $150 the bidding has 18hrs left, anyone know anything about these sway bars? so far I have found two reviews online the and they both say good things but hey another independant opinion on them would be nice

Little Help!

Mon, 25 Feb 2008 23:48:41 +0000

Hi Folks,

My son who is presently going to Universal Technical Institute in Norwood is looking for another part-time job. He was at Cap World in Westboro doing their installations but due to slow times his hours were cut. He attended Assabet Valley Vocational and graduated from their Auto Tech program and has been at UTI since last July. Mike is a truly talented mechanic and has alot of experience in all modes of the trade. His true love is 4x4 as you have gathered and as his senior project he did a restoration of a 78 Bronco and installed a 4" lift as the project was on lifts kits and their benefits and all.
Some of may have remember seeing it when he posted it for sale last summer on which he made a tidy profit. He is planning to go into the diesel and heavy equipment field as he has been going thru the training at UTI along with regular automotive. The job would need to be part-time for now as he goes to school for 6:30am until 12:30 each day. Working in the 4x4 enviroment would be heaven but any mechanical work would do. We will be joining FTR this spring and look forward to meeting you all
and doing some wheeling as well as service work and social events. Any help or leads anyone can provide will be greatly appreciated. Look forward to meeting you folks and Thanks for any help!!

Thanks,
Mike!

Wife's 04' Jeep Grand Cherokee

Tue, 19 Feb 2008 02:57:18 +0000

I change the oil every 3,000 miles, check air pressure, replace the air filter reguarly, change spark plugs, run a carbon dissolving additive through the gas once and a while. I plan to check/change diff. fluid and t-case fluid when it gets a bit warmer and have the trans serviced by a local shop. What am I missing? I want my Wife's Jeep to last a long time, so I want to take care of it.

Which Clutch?

Wed, 13 Feb 2008 23:57:53 +0000

I need a new clutch for the 95YJ 4 liter ax-15 and was wondering if anyone had any recommendations. I don't think I need a big dollar clutch kit i.e. CenterForce. I think I can get a Duralast gold for about 100 bucks with a lifetime warrenty and I may go for it unless someone has a better suggestions.

Thanks
Nate

CJ7 lift ?

Wed, 06 Feb 2008 00:21:44 +0000

whats the best way to lift a CJ7 it's going to be a street queen and never see any rough stuff, the guy wants to lift it and stuff a set of big wheels/tyres under it! all looks and no go

YJ D30 axle seal question

Sun, 03 Feb 2008 15:02:48 +0000

I have an 88ish YJ HP D30 that has been converted to the one piece axle. When I fill it up with fluid it will leak from the right axle tube, literally just drip right out. Where is the seal I will need to replace? Is it in the now unused disconnect area or is it in the center with the gears? Is it a special seal or just a stock replacement later model non-disco seal. Haven't taken it apart to look yet, just trying to get educated before I do.

Jeffs Transmission Problem

Sun, 13 Jan 2008 13:43:53 +0000

The Problem:
Shifting is wicked tough, i have to shut the jeep off to put it in reverse & again for 1st (some times i get & it goes w/minimal strugal) i have to powerr shift through the rest.

I heare a squeek & pop coming from the slave cyl area witch is makeing me think it may be a bad slave causing the problem.

Winter projects

Sat, 12 Jan 2008 03:04:15 +0000

Yo Guys and gals

Hope everyone had a good new year.

Since the bronco is off the road for the winter, I have a few projects I am working on. The First two are a new Bumper, and a winch. I got the Bumper all done, and the winch is here. I still have to wire it up, and am waiting for the synthetic line.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh125/D...pg?t=1200106476

I am also redoing the dash
I have it all mocked up, and the new panels are at the powder coater right now. Though they are a little backed up, so it could be two weeks before I get them back. I need to redo it before I install the cage, as the glove box, and a guage, and a switch will be blocked by the roll cage. I also have all new Autometer guages going in the dash.

Hopefully I will get them back from the powder coater sooner.
Will post more pics once it is done.

Legal Lift Height

Fri, 11 Jan 2008 01:19:52 +0000

does anyone know what the max lift height legally is on a TJ?

cage

Mon, 24 Dec 2007 15:03:34 +0000

did the interior of my cage this weekend
figured id show it off

and a cool pic from playing on some pebbles

a big thanks goes out to those that helped me

Check engine light

Sat, 22 Dec 2007 04:04:45 +0000

I'm posting this here because I'm looking for the F.T.R member who works at a Jeep dealership that was close to me. (Rockland). My wife's Jeep has a check engine light due to an egr, or vacume leak. I'm not looking for any discounts, I just want someone who I trust, to look at/fix the Jeep.

Thanks
Todd

D60 Ball Joint or King Pin?

Wed, 05 Dec 2007 16:22:08 +0000

So, what's best and why????

YJ Tire/Wheel Question

Sun, 02 Dec 2007 19:53:24 +0000

YJ front axle and some leaf springs on the front of my blazer with the springs at the stock YJ location on the axle and stock Jeep 5 spoke steel wheels and 33" tires.
Here's the question: on tight turns the tires rub the springs, what's the best way to fix this? Wheel spacers and what width? Or a/m wheels and what offset for 15x8"?

98 XJ Ball Joint & U-Joint Replacement

Wed, 28 Nov 2007 18:07:51 +0000

Hey all,

Well, my sister took her 98 XJ in for an inspection on Monday and it failed because of bad ball joints. She had it inpsected at Sullivan Tire and they said it needed new ball joints and u-joints. She asked the guy at Sullivan "How much, like $200?" and the guy just laughed at her. He could not do an estimate because they were busy, but it probably won't be cheap.

Anyways, I am planning on looking at it Friday when she gets back home and work on it this weekend. I have never replaced ball joints or axle u-joints. I have done the internet/forum searching and of course made a stop at www.stu-offroad.com and there are some writeups on there about what to do for the D30. I also have my 02 TJ factory service manual that should help too. I'll rent the ball joint press from auto-zone. Any other tips or tricks? As far as the new ball joints, I'll probably go to Napa and get the Moog ones, what about u-joints? I've read Spicer is the way to go, not the cheap autozone ones, but where would I get some Spicer u-joints?

Comments are apreciated. I figure I will tackle this job because I am sure I will have to do it again at some point in time.

Thanks!
Eric

tire help!! 86 k10

Wed, 28 Nov 2007 17:36:43 +0000

( im taking off my 15x7 wheels)((( Stock rally wheels))

upgrading to 15x9 rims, and putting 33" tires

will the backspacing and 33" tires cause rubbing on tierods or brakes maybe? idk i need awnsers.. lol

On-board Air

Mon, 26 Nov 2007 04:57:18 +0000

Some people had asked about my on board air system in my XJ, here is a diagram I drew up of it for anyone who wants to build one. It's a pretty simple design just keep compressor oiled.

Seats

Mon, 12 Nov 2007 14:31:04 +0000

Looking at replacing my worn out seats with some racing style seats. Who makes a good comfy seat? Better yet, any good shops in the area where I could check them out in person? I would really like to see what is out there along with fitment before dropping big $$$ on a pair. Comfort and fitment is priority. Not sure if I really need them to recline or not...

I'm sure there are a bunch more, but here are the company's that I have been looking at so far.

Cobra
Corbeau
Kirkey
Mastercraft
Recaro
Sparco

What are you running and do you like them?

Carb or FI

Wed, 07 Nov 2007 23:54:32 +0000

The 95 YJ I just picked up had a 4cyl but was replaced by a 4.2 with a carb. The motor has a sticky valve. The guy has the valve cover held on by 2 bolts to show this but it was pouring and I didn't care. Heres my question: I have a good 4.0 from a 93' I have the computer and only part of the harness but I can get another whole one. Should I try and fix motor if easily enough done, should I swap in motor with FI, can I swap in block from 93 and just use the carb and intake thats there. I know I'd have hook up fuel pump and stuff. This Jeep is only going to be used for offroad/weekend type stuff. The only other Jeep I had with a carb I replaced it right away with a 327 I had in the garage. Let me know your thoughts. Pros and Cons.

Educate me on cb's

Wed, 07 Nov 2007 17:21:03 +0000

What's a good cheap cb to get? Have to get one for the trail ride next week.

1 Step Forward, 2 Steps Back

Mon, 05 Nov 2007 01:37:36 +0000

I thought I would be able to drive the Blazer out of the garage today for the first time since driving it in over a year ago. Turns out it's not ready yet.

Finished welding up the bodywork/integrated slider on the pass side, hooked up the battery and started filling the radiator with coolant. Water started dripping out of the weep hole in the water pump, no doubt the seals dried up from the engine sitting in a storage unit for years. No big deal, I can putter around the yard with it and replace the pump later. Then I fired it up. Ran good, no oil leaks this time but (sniff sniff) that smells like gas. The sending unit was rotted sending fuel dripping down the sides of the tank. I already have a new tank and sender that I bought for my last S-10 but never installed cause it was a rusted out POS. So, now I need to pick up a new fuel pump and filter and some steel line and hose to complete the tank install and replace some questionable lines. I guess I need a water pump too.

Oh well, better to find out now before it leaves the garage then to find out hours from home or on the trail.

XJ Dana 30 help

Wed, 24 Oct 2007 00:03:26 +0000

I just picked up a 89 xj and the guy i bought it off of told me it needs a pinion bearing. How hard is that to fix? I was also doing some research and was reading about dico and non disco 30's in xj. Should i look for a non disco one? and do any non disco ones come with 4.10 gears stock? I'm looking for a cheap fix here so i can get out on the trails this year.

Educate me on welders

Sat, 20 Oct 2007 13:06:48 +0000

I've been saving for a while to get a welder, and am pretty much ready to go depending on what is right for me.

Home Depot has these two packages:

QUOTE

The Weld-Pak 3200HD has a 25-135 amp output and welds up to 5/16 In. steel using flux-cored wire. The unit plugs into a 120V (20 amp) outlet. It comes with a 3 year warranty on parts and labor (90 days warranty on gun and cable).

and this one:

QUOTE

The WELD-PAK 175HD from Lincoln Electric lets you take command of those projects that require some extra muscle. With its attention-getting 175 amps of output, this 208/230-volt wire feeder welder is powerful enough to weld mild steel up to 3/16 In. thickness with gas-shielded MIG wire and 1/2 In. with .045 In.nershield� NR�-212 self-shielded flux-cored wire. Best of all, the PRO-MIG 175 is essentially ready to plug in and use � just add a supply of shielding gas for MIG welding on mild steel. If you want to weld with .035 In. self-shielded flux-cored wire on mild steel then say no more � everything you need is in the box!

Now, I want to make it clear I have NO experience with welders.

What I want to do is learn (obviously) and ultimately I'd like a welder that would allow me to do things like:

Weld up a slantback rack for my rig similiar to this:

Fix exhaust issues
Weld frame cracks
Make a new brushguard
Make a light bar

etc...

I don't have 230 pulled to the garage, which I would need for the second welder, obviously.

I really would appreciate an eval of my needs against those examples, and if folks have better suggestions that fit into the $500 dollar range, I'd really like to hear them.

dana 44's

Mon, 15 Oct 2007 23:00:37 +0000

anyone know what a bronco hp44 with the welded on radius arm mounts is worth?

It had drums but they are missing and its been sitting around for at least 20 years off the ground.

Also a full width front chevy LP dana 44 with flat tops.

Coils spring/ pinion angle question?

Wed, 10 Oct 2007 19:13:44 +0000

After turning the rear pinion angle upwards to account for my lift and cv driveshaft install i am left with the coil spring perch at an angle backwards severe enough to actuall show a bend (C shaped bend) in the coil. So far It doesnt seem to effect anything off road. But i'm sure the springs would be more effective if sitting straight up and down.

Does anyone know if the perches can be removed then rewelded so as to correct the problem.

I have the same problem in the front, but have been able to reduce the angle to help a bit. (adjustable control arms)
I can do this in front, so far i have not need to drive in 4WD on the road. Hence no worries about vibrations. This could be a problem in the winter when i will be on snowy roads in Maine needing to drive fater to the point vibration will most likely occur.

The problem is more severe in the front, when i got home from last weeks trip in Maine the passanger side was sitting .75 inches lower than the drivers side, the C shaped bend in the spring was very obvious.

Does anyone have any thoughts on a cure?

Thanks, Jay

Doubler t-case

Tue, 09 Oct 2007 00:37:04 +0000

Hey guys, I have been doing some research on t-case doublers and need some advice on what second t-case to use. I'm not sure whether to go to a Dana 300 or just get another 231.

obviously the Dana 300 is a stronger and shorter t-case than the 231 but I want to be able to have my speedometer working and i'm not sure of how to adapt it to the Dana 300.

I also plan on stretching my YJ's wheelbase to accommodate the additional driveline length.

the jeep is currently sitting on 35" mtrs with HP 30 open front - 44 OX locker rear with 4.56's.

The crawl will be 130 to 1 with a 231 -231 setup and 125 to 1 with the 231 - 300 setup.

Diesel Question

Mon, 08 Oct 2007 21:25:25 +0000

can having the timing off, even if only by a few degrees, lead to a catastrophic failure of an engine?
M1008 blew on the highway the other day. only 116k on it.

Tie rod help??((86 k10 ))

Mon, 08 Oct 2007 02:12:22 +0000

well my 86 k10 has decided to start giving me problems not the motor that has a knock, or the normal "puff" at startup, but the tie rod is hitting/ rubs the front drivers side tire ( on the rim and where the beed of the tire is basically, im guessing i need a new tie rod, reason being i can literly rock the current tie rod back and forth ( straighten it out by hand, but 1 cut of the wheel and bam its touchin the rim agian, the bar that goes across the front of the axle dosent apear to be bent, but the tie rod ends? apear to be, just the drivers side.

on both sides, theres like a 1/8 inch gap?, ( 1 squeeze of a grease gun fills in the gap ) just to give an idea, i know without pics, me trying to explain this is useless, but i need to figure out if i tighten them up, the tie rod ends, will it stay straight on there? ( i can basically grip the middle of the tie rod with my hand, and turn it 90' degrees, and then its like, a mile away from the tire and rim,.... what can i do to fix this, i dont belive the tie rods are in horrible shape, maybe possible to tighen em down, but i need second opions, ill try to get pics up , but if any 1 has a clue to what i mean w/o any pics,please drop a dime.

this wont help much but its a Straight tie rod thats infront of the axle on a 86 k10 p/u ( belived to be a dana 44 ) ?????.... it has 10 bolts on the Diff..

as always, sorry for writing a mile long trying to spit out what my tech issue is.

edit: "attempt to make it more clear "

when moving the tie rod back and forth by hand, if i push it back towards the rear of the truck, not the front, it goes away from the tire, about 3 inches, give or take 1/2 inch, but the shock or w/e that goes from the axle to the tie rod pushes it back so it hits the rim again, idk how to spit this out, sorry guys really not trying to make it a pita......

Sandblaster anyone?

Sun, 07 Oct 2007 21:08:32 +0000

Anyone have a sandblaster I can use? I am trying to clean up my steel wheels....one small step on the road to being less rusty.

Tranny Rebuild

Wed, 03 Oct 2007 17:33:09 +0000

Alright so I have decided that instead of replacing my ax-15 with another questionable ax-15. I will go with an auto.

thinking a TF999 small, light, reasonably beefy and has the necessary provisions for a dana 300 and the 4.0.

any reccomendations on a good shop to rebuild the one I found. looking to have it rebuilt with a shift kit put in it. Also looking for a decent shifter for it. floor mount.

Jon

BTW some people have told me out of all the trannies to rebuild yourself this is the one so I am contemplating that.

new wheels and tires

Tue, 02 Oct 2007 01:58:44 +0000

just got a set of hummer H3 wheels and a set of 265/75R16 intecro Truxus m/t's for the truck. they should be here this week. mmmmmm

Attached thumbnail(s)

Governor Pressure Sensor ???

Sun, 30 Sep 2007 17:09:36 +0000

Can anyone give me some diag specs? Don't have a book. Getting a code P1762

P1762
Governor Pressure Sensor Offset Improper Voltage

2000 WJ

Symptoms include:

No automatic first gear. Manual first is present.
Very sluggish upshift to third.

Thanks.
Donny

Magnum lifter preload (Help Needed)

Sat, 22 Sep 2007 21:22:11 +0000

Alright, I just overhauled the top end of my Ram 5.9 magnum and I need some advice on the lifter preload.

I installed a Hughes engines cam along with new lifters, rods and adjustable rollers.

Hughes recommends 1.5 to 2.5 turn on the polylocks after zero lash is set. The engine is running but I have had the preload set at a bunch of different settings and there is considerable clatter as compared to stock. I dont know if this is normal or what but its annoying as hell. I currently have the preload set at 1 turn.

I am now considering doing the adjustments with the engine running because i have heard that this is the best way to set the zero lash.

Anyone have experience with this stuff?

Thanks
Nate

Welding classes

Thu, 13 Sep 2007 14:18:22 +0000

I know a bunch of people have asked me about welding classes. Well I went here last spring and the class rocked! I'm going this fall on Thurs with Cathie Robelo as the instructor. They will teach you anything from beginning to advanced techniques. Here is the registration/information link.

It would be cool if we could fill the class with FTR people!

small gmc mod.

Sun, 09 Sep 2007 23:29:20 +0000

removed the stupid front air dam today i think the truck looks a bit better now. also it has a new rear end 3.73 with a eaton posi.

Alignment Issue?

Tue, 04 Sep 2007 01:44:53 +0000

I'm trying to center my axle AGAIN since the shop I took it took didn't do a very good job. The driver's side tire rubs on the axle arms very hard at full lock and the passenger side tire isn't even close. This happens when driving forward. If I try the same thing in reverse the drivers side tire barely rubs at all. I'm not sure if this is an issue with my axle being off center or something else being out of adjustment. I'm even wondering if I have something (arm bushing) worn out?

Is this something Bay State Off Road could take a look at? If so, please schedule me in.

-Todd

14 bolt ff axle seals

Mon, 03 Sep 2007 15:00:28 +0000

My dads 04 GMC 2500HD needs the rear axle seals replaced. I've done plenty of c-clip style axle seals but I've never taken apart a full floater. Here's what I can start with:

1. jack up and remove rear wheels
2. remove calipers/rotors
3. what next...

Carb help? :/ " chevy guys "

Sun, 02 Sep 2007 20:39:20 +0000

have any of you guysAND girls... plugged vacuum lines and higherd the idle screw? :-/ i recently traded my truck wich was worth about $300.00 lol for an 86 trans am ( 4x4 swap comin soon i swear! ) but the carb had to be replaced with a few junkyard carbs to get it up and running and i cant figure out what lines go where now, has any 1 ever plugged them with screws/ nuts /bolts/ hose clamps etc...... or any 1 know a good after market carb and intake for a 305 or 1 from a 350 that might fit? ( with not many or any vacuum lines ) ??

idk what to get, i just need a little help trying to decide , i can bolt everything up i just dont know what to get

since i cant wheel with FTR till nxt yr i gota roll in style with a trans am no worrys ill still go snow bankin' in the T/a

please any 1 with awnsers respond asap, i cant keep 2 footing this thing at redlights.. ( runs rough almost like if theres a mild cam in it) but rougher... plz respond with tips, info, negativity, anything help would be great thanks
- Matt

Project Gonchar

Sat, 01 Sep 2007 23:35:11 +0000

In honor of Pete, we have decided to finish putting his rig together and bring it to Fall Crawl. Bob and Liza have been generous enough to allowed the use of their shop to do the work. We are planning on starting tomorrow, 9/2, at 12:30pm. Anyone who wants to come by and lend a hand or just BS is welcome.

To do list:
Install steering
Install front shocks and lower mounts
Swap out master cylinder
Install passenger seat
Finish cage

Parts needed:
(1) High Steer D44 arm - passenger side

Baystate Offroad
15R Spruce Street, Unit #5
Middleboro, MA 02346
Click For Directions

Jon's custom revolvers Shackles

Thu, 23 Aug 2007 01:36:41 +0000

I'll let jon tell the story.

Alloy USA front shafts

Mon, 20 Aug 2007 15:51:50 +0000

Anyone looking to put in some quality chromoly axle shafts in there CJ with a stock Dana 30 (76-86) or in their later model Waggy Dana 44, I have found a vendor with a complete set of Alloy USA axles inners outers and spicer ujoints for $400. Normal price is ~$600.

10 year warantee with spicer joints (everyone else requires after market chro-moly)

The sale is only for :
76-81 CJ Front
82-86 CJ Front
82-86 CJ Front 30 spline upgrade (need new carrier)
80-92 Wagoneer front.

Anyone got a MIG welder I can play with?

Tue, 07 Aug 2007 16:34:09 +0000

Tomorrow I am going to cut the back of a J-20 cab off and start getting my Cherokee turned into a 2-door (after I run the Farm, that is).

I've got to cut out the existing door-pillars from floor to drip-rail, then weld in the replacement. Then I'm planning on installing wheel-tubs from a Chevy pickup, and stretching out a new side-skin made from the J-20 bedsides. Eventually, I plan on shortening the roof, but that part of the plan is not yet definite.

I could cut out the old stuff here at my house, then trailer the rig to your place to tack in and then weld up the final stuff.

I eventually want to rewire my garage to handle a mig, so I can do patches on my Cutlass, but this would be a way to learn where even if I screw up, the truck will still be better-off than it now is.

Anyone have a torque wrench that goes to 300 lbs/ft?

Sun, 05 Aug 2007 13:24:04 +0000

I just ordered new shocks for my truck (got a great deal on a closeout of the cepek adjustable shocks - got them for $50 less per shock than the AMG factory shocks ).

Thing is, my torque wrench goes to 250 lbs/ft, and I need to torque the upper shock bolts to 300 lbs/ft.

Anyone have a torque wrench I can borrow in a couple of weeks when the shocks are here and it's a weekend?

Setting Pinion Angle?

Thu, 02 Aug 2007 23:51:53 +0000

What is the best way to calculate/set the pinion angle of an axle, specifically the rear? Is there an angle measuring tool I will need or will my sears brand magnetic base angle finder work for this? Also, do you think my 120v Lincoln mig welder is up to the task of welding my spring perches onto the axle tubes?

Or maybe I should just trailer it to Bay State and let Bob work his majic...

U-Bolt Torque

Tue, 31 Jul 2007 00:23:51 +0000

No, this is not a poke at Mark but I want to learn from his mistake. I will soon be doing final tightening on everything suspensionwise for the S-10. What is the recommended torque for the u-bolts on the axles? These are YJ D30 and D35 axles with the corresponding (brand new) replacement bolt kits. Is there a tightening sequence? I'm assuming there will be something like, tighten: drive 100 miles, tighten again...

my new winch Smittybilt XRC8

Sun, 29 Jul 2007 00:56:14 +0000

well this is the new "cheap" winch that have been talking about. it is supposed to be inexpensive with a good well built winch.

i finished my mount last night and stretched the cable out in my front yard. its def no speed demon, i would say its faster then a milemarker but not as fast as a warn. seems very well built, with the only plastic being on the electronics cover. comes with a blue lighted remote, that changes to red when powering out and green when powering in. as well as a roller fairlead, that i didnt use to save space upfront.

today i went wheeling. didnt need it for myself, but when marks axle shifted we used it to winch it back in place and it worked fine. i know it isnt an serous load testing, but its all ive had so far.

few pics i took after i got back today

Speedometer recalibration

Fri, 27 Jul 2007 22:11:07 +0000

Besides Superlift and Jet performance, does anyone know of a reliable speedometer recalibration device?

My speedo is off by 4+ MPH, and overdrive kicks in way to soon.

factory computer already set to largest tire setting. no other adjustment possible there, so says the tech.

leaning on Superlift, it has a switch to save two different configurations to allow for different tire sizes without having to recalibrate.

Edge and Hypertech said they do ot have anything for me.
j

drive shaft work

Thu, 26 Jul 2007 11:07:14 +0000

I am going to need my drive shafts lengthened for the 4 runner.
Does anyone know of a shop in driving distance of eastern mass?

Newest Addition to our virtual garage (since we don't have one)

Wed, 25 Jul 2007 10:51:44 +0000

This is "my" latest toy... if someone doesn't steal it from me!

1997 Cherokee (XJ):
Black, 4.0, Auto, 4 dr, 4wd, AC, etc...

Upcoming mods:
3 inch budget boost and 30 inch ATs (she's the grocery getter/daily driver)

-Stace

Help installing locker

Tue, 24 Jul 2007 19:38:08 +0000

I got a Detroit Locker real cheap for my 10b rear, and I was wondering if there was anyone here that would be willing to help me install in. The only thing I`m worried about is resetting the backlash.

Also, if you know of a good shop that would install it, somewhat close to Lynn, MA (North Shore), I`d appreciate that too.|

Thanks in advance

Ben

Measuring for drive shaft length

Wed, 18 Jul 2007 16:06:05 +0000

So how do i go about measuring up for my driveshafts? do i have to compress the suspension? and if i do what's the easiest way to do that? my leafs don't want to flex at all. should i wait till there is more weight on the jeep? where is a good place to get them?

thanks
Mike

Bigger, and better things

Wed, 18 Jul 2007 03:02:10 +0000

Im thinkin of taking my truck off the road in aug' once the insurance is up lol, so i think thats when ill get the most done, seeing how its hard to work on a daily driver, and drive it.

I want to do a 4inch Suspension lift upfront and lifting blocks in the back, Or somthing.

and i think i want to run 33's because i dont Reallyyyyyyyyyyyyyy want to do a axle swap, not yet or on this truck, just a first project.... ( ill finish it ) lol. my v6 4.3 isnt the greatest, or the best, but it could hold its own for another 5,000-10,000 miles i belive ( 5k for sure ). so im just lookin for some info and the do's and donts.......

im not looking to rock krawl in an 86' k10 , if i wanted to crawl rocks, i would of got a toyota or somthing that could handle horrible abuse....

basically, i want a 4x4 truck that i can go through a mud bog with and still drive home, or do some off roading with a couple stream crossings, be able to drive on a rocky trai if i wanted to, and feel pretty positive that my T-case wouldnt be on the ground.

its a 1/2 ton yeah yeah 10 bolt blah blah .. so im just lookin for some thoughts and diffrent veiws from people who've lifted a chevy before ( im not looking to go nuts either )

this isnt a " dreamer " project itll go through before sept i hope ! , please any 1 whos down a lift them self, give some thoughts, parts i need, what to shop around for or where to get a good deal, and what steering components id need for a 4inch lift

Mr. BLANK i herd you might be able to give me some advice about liftin , aint sayin any names though

idk sombody educate me with their words of wisdom

It's been a while so here's a couple new pics of my rig...

Mon, 16 Jul 2007 13:55:14 +0000

I removed the fenders and the lower marker lights on the grille because I'm too wide to fit where I want to go. I also can't run doors because I smashed the roof and squeezed the sides of the cab in (see the tree mangling the roof?).

CJ work

Fri, 13 Jul 2007 23:02:29 +0000

Recent casualty in the CJ is a blwon fan clutch. This caused the radiator to foam and burp spewing into the alternator and now the bearing is no good. For the first time in like 5 years i was stranded on the side of the road, but managed to get home. While it is out of service i decided to do some long overdue work.

With the alternator already out its time to mount my York which has been sitting in my garage for like 2+ years and get the on-board air running.

I am going to pull the front clip off so now is also the time to replace header gaskets, and possibly send headers back out to get powdercoated or something. When i bought them they were ceramic and supposed to last a long time, well they've only made it about 5000 miles in 5 years, maybe this winter I will switch to stainless.

Here is my question howver, while the front clip is off i am going to tackle my power steering leak, since day one it has leaked but this year it seems worse, and now that i have my own driveway and garage its becoming annoying. Someone once told me to put a wagoneer box on to stop the leaking from the big tires. Anyone else heard this? and if so what years work, and is it a direct bolt on? The pump is good, the box leaks badly.

One final project i have considering is a u-bolt reversal. I found some info on how to do the rear, but none on what parts might work for my D30 front end. Anyone ever flip their u-bolts on a CJ, any info would be appreciated!

http://www.jeeptech.com/susp

Scrambler is on the road!

Thu, 12 Jul 2007 10:33:01 +0000

Here she is!!!!

School me on, v6 4.3L chevys !

Wed, 11 Jul 2007 22:05:38 +0000

The headaches... ( burn/ lose almost a half quart of oil a week )

Well i have an old chevy sadly for some horrible reason the original owner wanted a v6 4.3 model in the late 80s'....
any who, 102567 miles later according to the title or possibly 202567 miles later... ( unsure but the title isnt checked off as disapearency or what ever... )

Any way to babble to my point....

I have a breather hose instead of breather cap or somthin..... i want to call it the EGR valve but its not, it comes up out of the head and runs into the.. Air box? .. it spits oil out of it etc... and i got 2 clean a puddle of oil out of it about once a week and ive been changin the AIR filter like every 3 weeks... because it turns so oily and black....

What could cause this?

How can I stop this?

Are there Breather caps/ breather filters for a V6 4.3L ?

idk over all it runs okay it just has a zillion stupid minor problems..

Evert's YJ cage

Tue, 10 Jul 2007 02:27:57 +0000

So...the cat's out of the bag. Evert wheeled his rig at Rausch Creek this weekend, so I figured I'd share some pics of his cage job.

You can see the whole album here: Evert's YJ cage

First thing was to make some mounting plates.

Figure out where I want them, and start fitting the main side hoops.

Side hoops bent and fit.

Top bars.

Rear hoop.

"B" pillars added.

Side bar ties.

Seat mounting.

Front frame tie in.

Rear frame tie in.

Seat sliders done and mounted.

Shoulder belt bar added.

Removed for finish welding and paint.

Grab handles added, welded, and painted. It's quite the jungle gym when seen like this.

Installed. Did I mention the Blue Torch Fab DIY Flat Fenders too?

Solve This Fuel Pump Mystery!

Sat, 07 Jul 2007 18:38:20 +0000

Scrambler w/4.3L TBI
Centek complete body, clip and dash wiring harness
Fuel Injection Specialties engine management wiring harness
Stock fuel tank and all new stainless fuel lines with appropriately sized delivery, return and vent for TBI
External Walbro inline fuel pump as recommended and purchased through Howell: I made a dedicated harness to go from the pump to the firewall

All body, chassis and dash ground wires have been triple checked

The engine management wiring harness came with a fuel pump circuit, its own fuse and relay built in

The problem:
The fuel pump keeps running with the engine off and key out of the ignition.
The fuel pump keeps running with the relay pulled out of the socket as a matter of fact, I cut all the leads to the relay socket thinking the relay was defective.
The fuel pump keeps running with the computer connections removed. The only way to kill the fuel pump is to remove the dedicated fuel pump fuse

I've untaped and inspected every inch of the engine management harness and can't find a problem with it!

opinion on gears

Fri, 06 Jul 2007 22:40:52 +0000

I can get 4.88s from alloy front/rear with master rebuild kits for 395.00 delivered. Rubicon gears are little more money than norm. seems like its a great deal any opinons?

I plan on having bob install.

bob dont worry

Tue, 03 Jul 2007 01:05:21 +0000

tore the 60 down tonight
its getting welded up so finally i wont have to deal with the trash-loc
figured the 60 could use some freshing up anyway so ill check all the seals and repack/replace the bearings

Brand New Project

Sat, 30 Jun 2007 16:27:34 +0000

My baby Boy.

Tracy James Murphy

7 lbs, 6 oz 19.5 inches long. Mom and Baby are healthy. He came last night at 9:25 PM Everything is good

center force clutch and pressure plate came.

Fri, 29 Jun 2007 17:56:16 +0000

hopefully the wide chain kit will come soon and then we can put some new parts in.

WTBorrow

Fri, 22 Jun 2007 18:46:58 +0000

Anyone have a bearing race & seal driver I could borrow for a bit?

Calling all engineers

Thu, 21 Jun 2007 03:37:05 +0000

I am using my compressor a lot lately trying to get the 4 runner back on the road. I have gotton some complaints that my compressor is too loud. Does anyone know a way to make it quieter? I am thinking of some kind of foam box that keeps the noise in and still lets it breathe. Any ideas.

This is similar to what I have but 60 gallons

New style torch

Tue, 19 Jun 2007 19:43:41 +0000

http://petrogen.com/welcome.html

Saw this on Craigslist, looks really cool. Probably used very commonly, but new to me. But I can't seem to find any pricing.

Internal tire balancing.

Sun, 17 Jun 2007 12:00:48 +0000

For use with internal pellets or beads.

"This section is for any vehicles equipped with large, aggressive tires, similar to those made by Interco, BFGoodrich, Toyo, Mickey Thompson, and Continental, although the data can be applied to any manufacturer of similarly sized tires. Make sure you check the 'Ply' column when making your selection." -Innovative Balancing.

S-Box II update

Sun, 17 Jun 2007 02:36:35 +0000

After repeatedly turning the distributor 180 degrees and repeatedly checking of the engine at tdc on #1 compression to be sure the rotor was pointing in the right spot and continuously having pops out the exhaust or pops out the tbi, I finally figured out my firing order was wrong (I didn't have a book). I had 2 cylinders crossed up. At this point it cranked normally but would not start. It would run for a second on carb cleaner so it wasn't getting fuel. The pump sounded fine. The gauge was reading 1/4 tank. After a bit of I decided to bang on the tank. CLONG CLONG "Hmmm that sounds empty." So I dumped in some gas, cycled the key a few times to build fuel pressure and then cranked it over and she fired right up. Ran pretty good too but I didn't run it long, maybe 10 seconds, cause I still don't have the radiator in. I also spent some time bending up some new trans cooler lines cause the old ones were kinda rusty. I guess I'm gonna have to plump the brake lines cause it might actually move under it's own power soon...

That ain't no trailer...this is a trailer!

Tue, 12 Jun 2007 02:39:51 +0000

Let's see...

Grandfather's 40+ year old trailer
2 inch tube for a new frame
Spring over leaf kit
New axle
36" Super Swamper Iroks (had to match the Jeep)
18" steel flares
Grated steel steps
Pintle hitch conversion
Ridiculous spare tire carrier (which can hold an upper 500 lbs hitch rack)
LED's all around
Countless cans of rustoleum

ENJOY!!!!

Safety first

Sun, 10 Jun 2007 14:35:13 +0000

Finally got a cage for the Bronco. Now I just need to get it into the truck.

While I am doing the cage I am also going to narrow the rear. I'm starting this today so I'll take pics as I go.

Collector Gaskets

Thu, 07 Jun 2007 20:57:49 +0000

Have to replace collector gaskets on the CJ, yet again. A few months ago I saw a pretty cool set-up on a Jeep. It was a clamp which fit over both sides of the flange, to prevent bowing of the flange which eventually leads to leaking. The clamps were on a Jeep which had the web-site "Dave'scustomcreations.com" but the website no longer works. I can't seem to find these type of flanges anywhere, does anyone know of this type of set-up or a dealer of this type of product. Any info would be appreciated.

New addition to the Jeep

Tue, 05 Jun 2007 12:22:24 +0000

I picked this up Friday, found it on Craigslist and it was on NEOW too, came with everything in the picture. That's a YJ mounting plate, I'm gonna see if it is possible to drill new holes for the TJ or I will make something similar up with some guys from work. Looks in real good shape, I haven't tried it out much just in and out a little. Anything else to look for or any tips? This is my first winch and I am in the process of reading up on safe winching practices and stuff.

http://forum.neow.net/index.php?showtopic=66872

more heep work

Tue, 05 Jun 2007 11:34:28 +0000

you know how you know you havent wheeled in forever?
when your heep, in a garage mind you, is covered in spider webs.

been working a a few things, and everything will be finished up this week.

first i am using 3x3x3/16 angle to stiffen the whole unibody, it is getting welded on from spring hanger to spring hanger. i am doing this to stiffen up the whole unibody as well as give me a solid mounting points for my flatbelly. in the process i also am patching a spot where the unibody is starting to go.

next i am doing a flat belly skid. skid is going to be my tranny cross member but will be able to still use a stock tranny mount. made out of 1/4 and will be bolted through the side of the unibody so it will have no bolt heads hanging below.

next i will have to redo the exhaust to make the flat belly work

bought all new plastic beadlock inserts for my h1 wheels, as well as everything to set up my spare wheel. so all the wheels need to be broken down for those to be installed, = pain in my ass

i am also going to install 4* shims up front to help with my pinion angle and to hopefully keep from blowing u-joints

i have some of this work done already and ill update later

Who can shoot some paint?

Tue, 05 Jun 2007 11:22:57 +0000

I need to replace the bumper, fender and grille on Karen's WJ (my fault; stupid telephone-pole... ).

I am NOT going to take this to some random body-shop in the neighborhood.

I will bolt the parts on, but I'd like to get them color-matched to the wagon's paint.

I need someone who can do a quality job and not rob me in the process, and who is willing to just paint these three pieces.

Who can recommend someone in RI or Southeastern MA who would prep and paint these three pieces for me?

Shop to replace A/C compressor or clutch

Mon, 04 Jun 2007 13:21:26 +0000

On my sister's 98 XJ the A/C compressor is pretty damn loud. It's squealing even when the A/C is off. I am pretty sure it is coming from the compressor/clutch. Does anyone know of a shop in the southeastern Mass area that could take a look at this, replace the clutch/compressor and check out the A/C system? I do not have the time or the knowledge to attempt this myself. I figured I would ask around if someone could recommend a garage that can work on this.

Thanks
-Eric

96 ZJ V8 into TJ swap

Fri, 01 Jun 2007 03:12:31 +0000

A guy I work with ZJ just got totaled. It was V8 318, auto trans, full time AWD t-case. He's thinking about putting this engine and trans into a TJ. According to the Novak website, there are typical drivetrain swap obstacles but nothing serious. The Novak info is very good but since neither of us are jeep guys there are some questions that need to be answered, so I figured I would post this up and see what happens...

1. Has anyone seen/done this swap? Maybe read an article or build of this swap? Can you post a link to any info or tell me where to find it?

2. What is the AWD t-case in the 96 ZJ? Would that need to be swapped into the TJ or would the TJ t-case (I'm guessing NP231) bolt to the back of the auto trans from the donor ZJ?

3. Any idea what the auto trans is in the ZJ w/the 318 V8?

4. Do the V8 ZJ's have D44 rear axles or are they the standard D30 front D35 rear? Will ZJ axles bolt into a TJ or are they different?

5. Anyone know of an inexpensive TJ (around $1500)? Looking for solid body/frame, decent interior, maybe something with high miles or blown engine/trans. Do you think it would matter if we started with a 4 cyl or 6 cyl (I'm guessing not cause it's all coming out anyway)?

6. What do you think? Any other info to add?

Bronco E40D tranny question

Thu, 31 May 2007 23:27:23 +0000

I've a friend who's got a '96 Bronco with this tranny in it. He's got about 88k miles into it.

He's getting a hesitation and thump when accelerating from a stop.

If he powers it, this seems to not happen (prolly does, but is masked by the rapid gear shift, but I dunno).

Fluid color is clean, level good. No shaking, etc.

Any suggestions as to what to look at?

Any help appreciated.

Toyota build

Wed, 30 May 2007 11:09:06 +0000

The other day the strangest thing happened as my wife and I where cleaning out the 4 Runner. She turned to me and said to order a lift and put bigger tires on. I couldn't believe what I just heard and I didn't want her to change her mind so I ran up stairs and ordered this!

It's the Marlin Crawler 4" front solid axle swap kit and 5" rear with 5.29 gears.

click click click....

Tue, 29 May 2007 12:14:23 +0000

It's more of the sound you'd get from one of those "rain sticks"

It's coming from my front right wheel.

You can really hear it when you drive next to a wall (and get the echo)

anyone ?

my jeep, with new winch mount

Mon, 28 May 2007 19:07:04 +0000

from yesterdays, L.O.S.T KJ's trail run...

(thats is a detours pre-production winch mount, avail. soon)

S-Box II pics

Mon, 28 May 2007 00:28:14 +0000

New(er) engine is installed but still needs to be bottoned up. Obviously I need to adjust front/rear ride heights, gonna start by swapping shackles front to rear and go from there.

Things to do...
finish engine swap, get it running
install rear shocks
make all new brake lines
figure out driveshafts, order accordingly
install exhaust
install quarter patch panel and square tube rocker on passenger side
rattle can paint to match body repairs
figure out spare tire mount
anything else...

Here are some current pics

My new bumper

Sat, 26 May 2007 17:39:28 +0000

Well, I finally finished a bumper for my dodge. It took a long time, but I think it came out good.

Sanden OBA

Thu, 24 May 2007 02:33:47 +0000

So I spent the night modding my sanden ac compressor for onboard air.

took it all apart and made a crankcase vent and sight tube for the oil. Modded the head as well to allow for better flow.

anybody else ever do this? have any other ideas

oil wieght

Mon, 21 May 2007 01:34:11 +0000

I usually use 10W-30 for my oil. Not until getting home did i realize that the girl at autozone grabbed me some 10w-40. I know 40 is a thicker wieght and i wouldnt want to use it in the winter maybe. but what about right now? am I ok to use that or should i go exchange it?

just a little update

Sun, 20 May 2007 01:25:20 +0000

i got a soft top for the jeep. there are new speakers in and a face plate now its nice to listen to music threw speakers that arnt blown. also we put in a tuffy full center consol.

Attached thumbnail(s)

3" lift and new 35s

Sat, 19 May 2007 21:16:26 +0000

I took a day of vacation, got together with some folks much more capable than me and spent 7 hours lifting the JK 4 door. It came out great and rides like before.

I have the prior springs and shocks in case anyone is interested in them.

I look forward to seeing you all in NH.

Don and Jake.

Finally moved winch control box

Tue, 15 May 2007 14:22:06 +0000

Found a good spot for the control box, it fit nicely where the antilock brake system would be. Rubicon's do not come with antilock brakes.

Got the idea from MRW last fall in his winch install thread.

Thanks for the idea

attachment=870:winch_front.JPG]

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Bob what are ya up to the next few weekends?

Sun, 13 May 2007 21:58:55 +0000

REF Topic: ----> http://www.freedomtrailriders.org/forums/i...?showtopic=4319

QUOTE (bobnoxious @ Apr 8 2007, 04:52 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

QUOTE (Crimson Rubicon 05 @ Apr 8 2007, 12:47 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

QUOTE (bobnoxious @ Apr 6 2007, 09:40 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Is it the pads that are worn out, or the parking brake shoes (they would need to disassemble the brakes/rotors to diagnose the parking brake shoes)? What was their reason for needing rotors? A lot of places will try to sell rotors rather than either turning them (making them thinner and therefore more likely to warp) or re-using them with no machine work at all. It may be as simple as either the last mechanic was lazy and didn't want to bother with brakes, or this mechanic is over-zealous and needs to make a car payment. Why did you go back in for service so soon...were you having a specific problem with the rear brakes?

The rotors may be good just the way they are, and just a set of new pads will get you fixed up, or there may be a caliper piston hanging up, or a caliper slide freezing up, causing accelerated/uneven pad wear, or the parking brake shoes may be wasted.

I may be a bit of a ride for you, but I'd be willing to put it up on the lift and check it out for you...and explain all this stuff to you ;)

Sure id definatly take you up on that on a nice weekend sometime, let me know what kinda brew you like

Liza and I are partial to green beer (Heineken or Molsen Golden) :grin:

I have Sunday the 20th off this month how does that sound? i dont have the schedule for the weekend after that yet but if that doesnt work out it can always be made for another day. If its simple enough Id like to replace them myself.

Id like to have a look at my bakes whenever its good for you and hell any excuse to drink a cold one on a weekend is good enough for me! right?

Leaky Pinion Seal?

Sat, 05 May 2007 22:50:36 +0000

Welp, today I decided to do some touch up painting of the passenger side rocker guard that got pretty scraped up last Sunday at MaBell. Then I looked under the Jeep and noticed this....

It was not leaking last week so I would put my money on that it happend at MaBell. Do you guys think it's the pinion seal, if so how hard is it to change? I have never had to do it before so just wondering. I will be doing some searches on a write up of it. Just figured I would post up and see what you guys have to say. Its not dripping bad, just looks to be slowly seeping out. I don't want to go too long before fixing it.

Thanks!

BTW its a D44

Made some progress today

Sat, 05 May 2007 22:14:52 +0000

Well i finally got off my butt and did some work. Got the new BDS lift springs installed on the cj. will get a rolling chassis soon. just need to figure out my new one piece axles.
[attachment=862:IMG_0391.JPG][attachment=863:IMG_0392.JPG]

And i finally got my Camaro moving and stoping under it's own power and in true red neck hillbilly style did some burnouts in the driveway. needless to say mom wasn't to happy but i was
[attachment=864:IMG_0390.JPG]

That's all for now.

Terraflex 3" lift vs. BDs vs. Other

Thu, 03 May 2007 16:22:39 +0000

After the abrupt education at Ma Bell that break over angle and long wheel base are dramatically intertwined, I began looking at suspension lift kits. I think the 3" lift is the way to go for my '07 JK as it provides enough lift for larger tires yet does not require some of the upgrades a 4" lift would.

Three questions. First, does anyone have a strong opinion on either Terraflex or BDS as to quality of their components? Is there another manufacturer that you would recommend.

Second, what are the most common problems after a lift? I know that the adjustments with the track bar is critical and that the speedometer needs to be calibrated.

Finally, I was looking at the Interco Truxis tires. Anyone have success with these? Is there a consensus on the best tire for the types of trails we ride?

Thanks for the help.

Don and Jake.

Shock Mount Question

Tue, 01 May 2007 23:16:07 +0000

The CJ is finally coming back together after many delays over the winter.
I did a U-bolt flip on my 20 and now I have to weld on new lower shock mounts. I don't want them so low that they hang up and defeat the U-bolt flip, and I don't want them to high and limit shock travel. Any measurement formulas out there?

Calling Dr. BOB

Wed, 25 Apr 2007 23:55:06 +0000

Trolling ebay for stuff and found this....

Jeep Waggy

Where oh where can I find a transmission...

Tue, 24 Apr 2007 22:58:19 +0000

Hey what's going on folks, My buddy recommended you guys for knowing where I could find a tranny. So here it goes! I have a '97 TJ with an AX-15 that won't stay in 1st gear and it's only getting worse. I have been told by many folks that the NV3550 is 1.) Bolt for bolt compatible and 2.) Is stronger and more reliable. I was just wondering where you all think I might be able to find one around the RI/MA area? Thank you for any help. I'm quickly running out of options, and I don't want to pay either the stealership or transmission place to do something that my buddy and I could do. Thanks again!

Detroit soft locker and manual transmissions

Thu, 19 Apr 2007 21:57:18 +0000

I'm looking for some input, based on personal experience, on a Detroit soft locker. Has anyone driven one in a vehicle with a manual transmission? Bob told me about his with an automatic, but had no driving experiances with one in a manual trannied heep.

I'm trying to narrow my rear locker choice to either the selectable E-locker, or the automatic Detroit soft locker. I may have to go with the latter.

I use the Jeep on the road to get to and from the job sites. I don't speed around in it, maybe 55 maximum, or 60 if it's a really smooth stretch of highway. Obviously, I'll use it on the trails too, so I think I don't need to elaborate there.

Full circle clips

Thu, 19 Apr 2007 02:34:03 +0000

Anyone know where to purchase (local if possible) full circle snap rings/clips for x297 joints? Or perhaps a part number for them?

Yukon still hasn't sent them, and it's been a while now. and I want to get this thing together!

Thanks

Dealer Prices S@#K

Mon, 16 Apr 2007 20:26:20 +0000

Had to get a new steering stabalizer for the 99XJ cherokee. i called the dealer, when i asked him the price i was stunned.

$92.00 plus tax. For a stock unit.

Called 4wd.com after discount and shipping $32.00.

ICFBI, anyone figure that out! shouldn't be too hard.

Oh, here is a good one. last week asked the dealer for a set of lug nuts 20 all together. $4.35 EACH. I went to autozone.

DANA 30 gear oil capacity

Mon, 16 Apr 2007 17:24:40 +0000

How many quarts of gear oil does a dana 30 take? And can i use synthetic oil with a lock rite locker and a detroit locker?

CJ Steering

Thu, 12 Apr 2007 19:50:26 +0000

I'm looking for a kit which has 1ton TRE that will bolt into my CJ widetrack dana 30.
I know I can build it, but would rather just buy something and slap it in there.

It needs to be able to stand up to me and my hydro assist ram.

I've looked around but havent been able to find a kit like this.

Any suggestions on who makes one?

Thanks
Bobby

F/S Chevy Wiper Fix

Thu, 12 Apr 2007 16:50:24 +0000

I know there are a few people here that drive later model Chevy/GMC fullsize trucks. When driving on the highway at 65-70 mph in the rain the drivers wiper seems to skip across the windshield not affectively clearing the view. This also happens when you have a strong head wind. If you put Volvo wipers on from a 00-04 S40 (Volvo part #274385) this problem is solved. The Volvo S40 drivers side blade has a wing on it that deflects wind over the blade keeping it on the glass at speed. Although you have to buy them from a Volvo dealer, they are not that expensive at $26.62 for the pair, the a/m versions do not have the wing. I put them on my 04 and they made a huge improvement. They are about an inch shorter than the factory GM blades but you're not missing anything there.

flat belly the MJ

Tue, 10 Apr 2007 14:46:46 +0000

Saturday when i felt like a beached whale while sitting on my cross member on a boulder. Then while being dragged off my stock cross member turned into a pretzel and the mount bolts are not happy.

Decided i had to do something

so i decided i wanted to build a new cross member and flat belly the rig. not the easiest thing do do on a unibody rig cause i couldn't just weld tabs to the frame for the cross member.
came up with the idea of plating the whole frame with steel then i would have a good base to work off of. 3x3 angle should suffice but also would be a decent amount of work to make it fit and not look hacked. searched pirate for what others had done and found a link to this
http://www.tntcustoms.com/webv5/xjstiffeners.asp
with a little modification it will work great for the mj. and the guy i spoke with there was very knowledgeable and seemed very professional. if i get the stuff on time like he said then they will get a nice mark in my book.

now onto the flat belly and cross member. i had been trying to figure out how i was going to fit everything in and still be flat to the bottom of the unibody when joe gave me a good idea. going to make the skid also my cross member. that will solve fitment problems and still allow me to be flat.

now i just have to find a shop that can brake 1/4 plate. anybody know anyone?

night wheeling anyone?

Sun, 08 Apr 2007 12:29:34 +0000

got my whole truck wired up and made a new dash to replace the non-working stock gauges

after yesterday i guess i will be build a new cross member and flat bellying my rig before the trail run at the end of the month

Jeep update

Sat, 07 Apr 2007 21:27:14 +0000

i got my WARN rock sliders on and the Rubicon 1" extended flares on.

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$385 for brakes and routers

Fri, 06 Apr 2007 00:34:07 +0000

ok this is my first time replacing the rear breaks on my TJ, at least i think my 2005 rubi is a tj, i still havnt got the whole tj, cj, jk thing down yet. is $385 alot to have them replaced? thats including the rotors too. Ive never had to replace brakes before on a jeep. Just something about that seems high. Especially since 6 or so weeks ago i was in for something else and i specifically asked them to check out all my brakes and they told me then they were fine and i wouldnt need anything for a while. all this was done at the jeep dealership i bought the jeep from it all just ssems fishy. Plus i thinks its dangerous that they didnt pick up on the need to replace my brakes such a short time ago.

my questions to you guys and gals is:
Does 385 sound reasonable to be replacing rear brakes at 27,000 miles?
I know my rotors are thin but do i really need to replace them?>

Front axle trouble

Tue, 03 Apr 2007 21:28:46 +0000

I don't even have a good story. The stupid shaft just exploded and pooped the u-joint out onto the grass. At least the joint is still good.

I have new shafts on the way from Alloy. 10 years of no questions asked warranty here I come. The bobby long u-joint is still good, I just need one replacement cap

http://longfieldsuperaxles.com/images/StressTest.pdf

Quadra Trac

Tue, 03 Apr 2007 18:30:26 +0000

I was told that members get a discount at Quadra Trac. Is there a code that is needed?

thank,
Don

Oxy/Acct Torch Question

Mon, 02 Apr 2007 23:05:54 +0000

I got a regulator kit for a Christmas gift and had a few questions about it. What I wanted was a small bottle setup that you could carry around. I was told that there we're two different regulator styles, one for the small bottles and one for the tall ones. Does aynone know how to figure out which is which??? I was also told if you mix them up really bad things could happen. I'll post a pic if anyone need it.

-Todd

steel?

Fri, 30 Mar 2007 19:29:44 +0000

where do you guys that fab your own stuff buy your metal? like 3/16 plate and tubing etc.

"how to" fix it.

Mon, 26 Mar 2007 17:31:26 +0000

what options are availble to fix this stripped hole.

I think it came from the factory this way, it's not really stripped but the first 3/8 inch of the hole is like there were no threads there, the bolts are/5/16, and i can fit a 3/8 bolt in the hole for the first 3/8s or so. all the other holes are treaded from the very start of the hole.

There are only a few threads holding deeper inside, and i can't tourque it to spec in fear to ruin it completely. right now i have it hand tightened to a point where im guessing it is just about to give. and guess what i can't stop the very small/slow leak.

the other peice of good news is that it is located on the very bottom.

Anyone have a suggection? can i drill it and tap it 3/8? or is that steel to hard?

J

AX 15 swap

Sun, 25 Mar 2007 14:00:55 +0000

Whats going on? First post here and already learned a lot from other posts. My buddy said that you guys knew your stuff and I agree from all the posts I saw so I have a question for you. In my '97 Wrangler Sport my AX-15 tranny keeps popping out of first gear along with some other problems. I am planning on taking a look at it to see what might be wrong, but as a backup plan I wanted to know if the NV3550 is a bolt in transmission from my AX-15? I heard that the NV3550 is a very stable much more than the AX-15 so that's why I am considering it. Thank you folks for your help!
-Kyle